To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 22:34:23 +0200 Subject: FF-headlights & viscous fan (was: [Volvo303] Lights, the neverending saga....:)) Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 14 Apr 2006 at 18:54, Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > On 12 Apr 2006 at 20:01, Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > > > > Headlights turn out to be rather problematic, at least in what seems > > the OEM versions....and since my C306 has two different brands left > > and right, I guess it still makes sense to list the data written on > > the glass....my guess is that both were OEM, in certain years: > > (Bosch/Volvo being the first generation, Hella the second?) > > > > Hella: > > SB47 > > 02A > > 02HC/R > > E4/20 > > 50R-00333 > > 300-111 603 > > > > Bosch/Volvo: > > H4 > > HCR > > E4/20 > > 12R20 > > 1 305 603 14 > > > > > > Both the Hella and Bosch distributor came back to me with 'blocked' > > or 'not available'. > > Hmm....further observation of both brands of headlights on my C306 > (1980) reveals a rather interesting difference: the Bosch/Volvo unit > sticks out about 1cm from under the metal ring, while the Hella unit > is nearly flush. > Interesting, because my headlight-wiper on the Bosch/Volvo unit isn't > working properly, it gets stuck in the upper position, after wiping > the glass.... > (I first suspected it to make a larger angle of movement than the > other side, but now I might have found the real cause....) > So, now the question becomes even more relevant: which is the > older/original unit, Bosch/Volvo or Hella? > With this wiper-problem in mind, I now have the contrary suspicion as > before: Bosch/Volvo = new, Hella = old.... > Which would then also nicely explain why the headlight-wipers > vanished on later models....the headlights simply didn't match....:)) > > > > > Additional notes: > > 7" Hella replacement unit, a 35,35 euro: > 1A6 002 395 031 > (a drawing can be found on http://www.hella.nl when entering the > partnumber 1A3 001-120-001) > > Beyond this, the Hella distributor could not find a 7" replacement > unit among their FF-series, but they told me that I should look at > either VW Golf/Rabbit (series-1), or better at Mercedes G-series, > latest generation (2005). > (which would also be the most likely candidate to have a complete > Xenon installation, for those interested....anyone know for sure? > (probably optional)) Gotcha!....:)) http://www.unimurr.de/unimurr/html/h4%20403-416.html (looks like mandatory & elaborate remanufacturing of the cover-rings, plus drilling 3 10mm bolt holes....not sure if the latter would be suitable for a Volvo as well (even less space between rear of lamp housing and feet?....access to every location/position of those 3 bolts?)) No clue about prices yet btw, gotta chase my MB-dealership next week....:)) Btw, also interesting notes on that site about replacing the rigid Unimog fan[*] with a viscous unit (still mechanically powered, a much better option than changing to electric IMNSHO): http://www.unimurr.de/unimurr/html/viscolufter.html Seem at least we now have a manufacturer of generic viscous-clutches, in various sizes.... [*] rated as 5kW, rather mild, as I have 5-10kW in mind for general- spec (Africa) Land Cruisers) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 02:17:46 +0300 (EEST) Subject: [Volvo303] Chains and fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Then about my experiment that I was inspired to perform by information from my friend at work. He istalled electrical fan instead and at the moment he has only manual switch for it. He said that normal driving on-road as he is doing he does not need to switch the fan on at any time. OK, so I removed the propeller shat for fan and vent out and yes, normally, even that my driving included standing still at traffic light sno bproblems what so ever! temp meter just rocks a bit abowe and below 90 degrees as thermostat opens and closes, both heaters at fully warm and heater fans on slower position. I did not try to stand still for a longer period of time but seems to be that these car does not need the fan when driving! Then about the noise, normally I would think that engine is reving like 6000-7000rpm, based on the sound, now even I keep throttle on the floor, compared to normal situation it feel that car is doing not more than 2500-3000rpm cause the noise is reduced. On the road, from 0 - 40 km/h you basically can not hear the engine and you may accidentally drive like 50 with 2. gear as there is not noise! Ambient temperature was like 10-15 degrees celsius today. For certain first thing to do is installation of 2 12volt fans or 1 24 volt fan and will leave the mechanical fan there as a spare as it takes 5 minutes to instal the axle back if electrical fans fails. For a electrical fan I was planning to do 3 different connections. Off, for a deep water as the fan a padling the water, then second postion for auto mode via temp switch and third mode, always on. Always on for a situation that I do not know but just to have it.... -teppo To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 17:13:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Chains and fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On May 23, 2006, at 4:17 PM, Teppo Rapo wrote: > For a electrical fan I was planning to do 3 different connections.=20=20 > Off, for a deep water as the fan a padling the water, then second=20=20 > postion for auto mode via temp switch and third mode, always on.=20=20 > Always on for a situation that I do not know but just to have it.... > -teppo Electric thermostats can fail. So can fans, so having a manual=20=20 switch allows you to bypass the thermostat if you don't trust that=20=20 it's coming on at the right temperature, and to test that the fan is=20=20 working when the engine is cold. I think having a manual on is a=20=20 good idea. Cheers, Dave To: From: "Angus Benjafield" Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 15:48:29 +0100 Subject: [Volvo303] fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Teppo, I just tried removing the fan shaft and it hasn't made any difference, as you said the thermostat comes on after a while and the temperature goes down again. I'm going to leave it disconnected and see what happens... Angus To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 20:24:18 +0300 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Angus Benjafield kirjoitti: > Teppo, > > I just tried removing the fan shaft and it hasn=92t made any difference, > as you said the thermostat comes on after a while and the temperature > goes down again. I=92m going to leave it disconnected and see what > happens.. > > Angus > I did like +100 kilometers without any remarks :) Pls let us know how it behaves! I'm not planning to instal it back in the near future. Hopefully I get electrical version installed first. -teppo To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "rdoveryhoo" Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 20:24:39 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com A tale of warning about going without a fan. I removed my mechanical and found more power, less noise etc etc but I fitted a 16" (40cm) Kenlowe fan at the same time. As Teppo has fouond, when the ambient tempoerature is below 10c or 12c then you do not need the fan for normal driving, however above that temperature or when idling for a while or whilst driving off road you 100% definately need a fan. My fan comes on regularly for a minute or 2 every 5 minutes when off road or idling and when the fuse failed the truck over heated in a spectacular way in under 3 minutes! I have a 3" raditor with a new core and even though it seldom gets hot here in Scotland, I did get the chance to test the cooling properties a few weeks ago when it was 20c and the fan was running for quite a long time when off road. A good electrical fan with a reliable thermostat is essential. BTW the LPG is still running great ...... And I've just bought a near perfect TGB11 wioth Al/Zn body ...... Just don't tell my wife! Richard www.volvoc303.co.uk To: From: "John Allen" Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 07:33:07 +1000 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] Re: fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com I live in the tropics I have 2 fans fitted- one front one rear. I run one on and the other thermostat controlled with manual override on both. This setup is ok for normal conditions but totally out of its league for driving in soft sand which demands 100% power for sustained periods. For this I would reconnect the mechanical fan. I did not use the usual thermostat that comes with the fans. I used a proper screw into the rear of the block temperature switch (non adjustable) I may have needed an adaptor for this. Be where that suitable the fans will draw large amps and the alternator needs to be up to the job! Regards John Allen Sunny North Queensland Australia To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Jens" Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 06:28:17 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi, you need ca. 2-3 kW power for your fan if your engine have to work hardly. I mean off-roading or climbing up a mountain pass. If you get a look to the cooling of real trucks, no one use an electrical fan, it does not make sense. I will modify my mechanical fan with a viscous coupling. Jens To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Aryan Schmitz Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 09:00:02 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com >Hi, >you need ca. 2-3 kW power for your fan if your engine have to work >hardly. I mean off-roading or climbing up a mountain pass. >If you get a look to the cooling of real trucks, no one use an >electrical fan, it does not make sense. >I will modify my mechanical fan with a viscous coupling. > >Jens You probably gain about 2 kW on max RPM by not having the fan connected, but are you sure you need so much power for a electric replacement? I think that, even though you loose some energy by creating the electricity and turn the electricity back to rotation, an electric fan, having a much better aerodynamic design as the mechanic fan and turning at a constant speed could be much more efficient? A viscous coupling is of course a nic solution, another would be to have an (electromagnetic) clutch in the propellershaft so that the fan freewheels under most circumstances but can be engaged if the engine is getting to hot. Maybe an AC compressor clutch coul be used in some way? /Aryan To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Jens" Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 14:58:33 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: fan experiment Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi Aryan, I will only look at the needed power for fan at maximum engine- stress. It is a big difference between common passenger-cars and trucks. No passenger-car is equipped with a "full-cooling". I mean, you canīt stress a passenger-car engine under full power by low velocity but the engine will overheating. example: climbing up a mountain during one hour with a trailer => every passenger-car will failed but a commercial truck can solve this the (ca.) 2 kW power for fan means the maximum mechanical power to drive the fan by maximum rotation speed. It is a function of the geometric parameters of the fan and the rotation speed, directly proportional to the amount of delivered air. If only 0.6 kW available (typical power of electric fans), the amount of air is corresponding to this power. You could optimize the geometric parameters of the fan but you canīt increase the air- stream significant. The 0.6 kW electric fan is sufficient for 99% of all situations in driving passenger-cars but not 100% ! Thatīs one reason that no commercial truck is equipped with electric fans. For extreme off-roading (sand-driving in northern africa) you need the whole engine power at very low velocity and you need an approximated power for the fan of 2-3 kW. Hence I have decided for me to leave the genuine mechanical fan and optimize it by a viscous- coupling. An electromagnetic clutch should be another option but I did not find a strong enough clutch in 24V DC. Jens To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:09:55 +0200 (EET) Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Slight OT but I have been talking to several people about the mod and people have had number of problems due to cooling fan modification. Boiling carb's, overheated alternators, bent intake manifolds, overheated igition system also on one car, can't recal was this only due to cooling fan or some other issues as well. Also fuel fumes might be even safety issue during summer time.. Engine is so packed up that it needs additional cooling/ventilation after mechanical fan removed. I also know some additional vent lines istalled on 2 volvo's, from top of the engine cover to the roof. All of these applies only for off-road, low velocity conditions of course. Only on road use I would really like to have mechanical to be taken off due to noise of it. -teppo Teppo Rapo +358 40 5508394 Ahkiomaantie 7 FI-96300 Rovaniemi To: From: "Colby Boles" Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:45:53 -0800 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Volvo303@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Teppo Rapo Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 23:09 PM > Slight OT but I have been talking to several people about the mod and > people have had number of problems due to cooling fan modification. > Boiling carb's, overheated alternators, bent intake manifolds, > overheated igition system also on one car, can't recal was this only > due to cooling fan or some other issues as well. > > Also fuel fumes might be even safety issue during summer time.. Engine > is so packed up that it needs additional cooling/ventilation after > mechanical fan removed. I also know some additional vent lines > istalled on 2 volvo's, from top of the engine cover to the roof. > > All of these applies only for off-road, low velocity conditions of > course. Only on road use I would really like to have mechanical to be > taken off due to noise of it. > > -teppo I'm really surprised that the low vehicle speed performance of these electric fans is worse than that of the mechanical one. It sounds like the electric fan or radiator performance was underrated for the task. When you look at modern engines which use electric fans almost exclusively and think about how often you see one of these overheating on the side of the road as compared to older mechanical fan vehicles, I have to think that electric fans can work well. Off road racers use the same EFE fans I purchased initially, and have radiators positioned in such a way that most all of the airflow through the radiators is provided by the fans: These work well under racing conditions in the deserts of Baja California, so I have to think they could work anywhere. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:10:24 +0200 (EET) Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Colby Boles kirjoitti 11.11.2009 kello 23:45: > I'm really surprised that the low vehicle speed performance of these > electric fans is worse than that of the mechanical one. It sounds like > the electric fan or radiator performance was underrated for the task. > When you look at modern engines which use electric fans almost > exclusively and think about how often you see one of these overheating > on the side of the road as compared to older mechanical fan vehicles, I > have to think that electric fans can work well. Off road racers use the > same EFE fans I purchased initially, and have radiators positioned in > such a way that most all of the airflow through the radiators is > provided by the fans: > > > > These work well under racing conditions in the deserts of Baja > California, so I have to think they could work anywhere. > Problems only occurs when fan's are on thermo switch, not running all the time, if they were running all the time everything was just fine. Maybe the radiator and engine compartment is designed for fan operating all the time...? I have no doupt's that electrical fan would work ok in the construction that is designed for them. -teppo Teppo Rapo +358 40 5508394 Ahkiomaantie 7 FI-96300 Rovaniemi To: "Volvo303@yahoogroups.com" From: David Giller Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:25:43 -0800 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On Nov 11, 2009, at 2:10 PM, Teppo Rapo wrote: > Problems only occurs when fan's are on thermo switch, not running all > the time, if they were running all the time everything was just fine. > Maybe the radiator and engine compartment is designed for fan operating > all the time...? I have no doupt's that electrical fan would work ok in > the construction that is designed for them. > -teppo I would suspect that choosing the right thermostat temperature for the switch is important, and we may require a lower speed than most applications. However, the suggestion to provide additional venting, i.e. a way for the hot air to escape through the top of the engine bay, is a vary good idea. I'm going to look into doing that for my conversion. I do tend to believe that the military radiator is rather underrated for the application. The Allisport radiators that Richard had made are beautiful, and I hope it is enough for my 4.3L V6. Colby, if you have any photos of your Griffin radiator to share, it would be great to see them. I've used a Griffin radiator in another project, and they are beautiful. It would be interesting to see how they did with the Volvo radiator. Cheers, -Dave To: From: "Colby Boles" Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:25:13 -0800 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Volvo303@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Teppo Rapo Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 2:10 PM > Problems only occurs when fan's are on thermo switch, not running all > the time, if they were running all the time everything was just fine. > Maybe the radiator and engine compartment is designed for fan operating > all the time...? I have no doupt's that electrical fan would work ok in > the construction that is designed for them. > > -teppo So you are saying maybe: * that the fan controller + thermostat may be keeping the engine coolant temperature correct * the electric fan and radiator may in fact be so efficient that they are only on a small fraction of the time * this leads to low airflow / high heat in the engine compartment * which leads to failure of uncooled external engine components such as the alternator, coil, etc. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Phil Movish Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:39:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- On Wed, 11/11/09, David Giller wrote: > I would suspect that choosing the right thermostat temperature for the > switch is important, and we may require a lower speed than most > applications. > > However, the suggestion to provide additional venting, i.e. a way for the > hot air to escape through the top of the engine bay, is a vary good idea. > I'm going to look into doing that for my conversion. > > I do tend to believe that the military radiator is rather underrated for > the application. The Allisport radiators that Richard had made are > beautiful, and I hope it is enough for my 4.3L V6. Colby, if you have any > photos of your Griffin radiator to share, it would be great to see them. > I've used a Griffin radiator in another project, and they are beautiful. > It would be interesting to see how they did with the Volvo radiator. > > Cheers, > -Dave I am running a Spal 16 in., 24V, 2500 CFM fan mounted as a puller to replace my original mechanical fan on my TGB1313 Radio Truck. I also have a 3X capacity aluminum radiator ( obtained through from Richard in the UK). The fan is thermostatically contriolled from a temp sensor at the back/top end of the engine.=C2=A0 This set up has made a tremendous difference in cooling...I run 80 - 90 C in the Summer ( at 5000 Ft elev + in Colorado) even when running at 4000 RPM on the highway. Much quieter and does a good job cooling at low speeds too. One of the best mods I've done. I also removed the original hood as partbof the retrofit. ...Phil To: From: Phil Movish Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:36:20 -0700 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- On Wed, 11/11/09, David Giller wrote: > I would suspect that choosing the right thermostat temperature for the > switch is important, and we may require a lower speed than most > applications. > > However, the suggestion to provide additional venting, i.e. a way for the > hot air to escape through the top of the engine bay, is a vary good idea. > I'm going to look into doing that for my conversion. > > I do tend to believe that the military radiator is rather underrated for > the application. The Allisport radiators that Richard had made are > beautiful, and I hope it is enough for my 4.3L V6. Colby, if you have any > photos of your Griffin radiator to share, it would be great to see them. > I've used a Griffin radiator in another project, and they are beautiful. > It would be interesting to see how they did with the Volvo radiator. > > Cheers, > -Dave Re the thermo switch my setup is always active to switch the fan on automatically at an approx 88 deg C set point. I have an override to switch it on manually at any time. Its nice not to boil over any more! Running the fan is critical for sustained operation at highway speeds under load to keep from overheating. Driving at lower speeds and in town driving my fan cycles on and off. Driving my truck to work at 30 F an df MPH max the fan actually did finally come on after approx 30 min of driving and cooled it down to 80 C. Just not enough engine compartment to dissipate the heat especially with the muffler heat at the end of the compartment. I do not find any fume intrusion into the cab at all even when the fan is idle. I enjoy being able to hold a reasonable conversation while driving too :)) ...Phil To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:35:16 +0200 (EET) Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Colby Boles kirjoitti 12.11.2009 kello 00:25: > So you are saying maybe: > > > > * that the fan controller + thermostat may be keeping theengine coolant > temperature correct > > * the electric fan and radiator may in fact be so efficient that they > are only on a small fraction of the time > > * this leads to low airflow / high heat in the engine compartment > > * which leads to failure of uncooled external engine components such as > the alternator, coil, etc. Yes, that is what I'm talking about. -teppo Teppo Rapo +358 40 5508394 Ahkiomaantie 7 FI-96300 Rovaniemi To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Christian Brudevoll Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:40:19 +0100 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com I suppose it would help to insulate the part of the exhaust system which is in the engine compartment. Some years ago someone wrote that that had reduved the temperature in the drivers cabin. Christian To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 00:23:50 +0100 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 11 Nov 2009 at 14:25, Colby Boles wrote: > So you are saying maybe: > > > > * that the fan controller + thermostat may be keeping theengine coolant > temperature correct > > * the electric fan and radiator may in fact be so efficient that they > are only on a small fraction of the time > > * this leads to low airflow / high heat in the engine compartment > > * which leads to failure of uncooled external engine components such as > the alternator, coil, etc. Perhaps it helps to ask the reverse question: How many other engines/samples that had *no* problem with converting to electric fan *also* had the mechanical fan at such a large distance from the engine, *and* an engine-compartment almost sealed off on rear and sides? Certainly *none* of the hardcore trial/baya racers have it that way....;)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:05:16 +0100 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 13 Nov 2009 at 0:23, Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > On 11 Nov 2009 at 14:25, Colby Boles wrote: > > > So you are saying maybe: > > > > > > > > * that the fan controller + thermostat may be keeping theengine coolant > > temperature correct > > > > * the electric fan and radiator may in fact be so efficient that they > > are only on a small fraction of the time > > > > * this leads to low airflow / high heat in the engine compartment > > > > * which leads to failure of uncooled external engine components such as > > the alternator, coil, etc. > > Perhaps it helps to ask the reverse question: > > How many other engines/samples that had *no* problem with converting to > electric fan *also* had the mechanical fan at such a large distance from > the engine, *and* an engine-compartment almost sealed off on rear and > sides? > > Certainly *none* of the hardcore trial/baya racers have it that way....;)) > Another reverse question/pondering/contemplation: *If* the Volvo engine-location/encapsulation is *not* thermically challenged (read: requiring constant air flow), then why do most samples have significantly *more* trouble re-starting hot than is the case with other gasoline engines of the same era? Even a Volvo car B30 engine starts more willingly, not? That said: wouldn't it be possible to add a thermostate-clutch-regulated fan from a Volv car, close to the engine, for direct engine air flow? (and leave the electric unit only for radiator cooling) (it is even possible to change the viscous fluid with stronger viscosities; Toyota offers at least 2 stronger types) (see http://www.markerink.org/WJM/HTML/tlc_fan-clutch_fluid.txt ) (for desert tours, the second rating is strongly recommended, while on the other hand it is strongly discouraged for normal/European conditions, because a diesel will never really warm up....8-)) Willem (who wouldn't want to give up this engine-location/encapsulation, because there is no better heat source in winter than radiating and conducting heat (instead of just hot air), even hours after the engine is switched off....:)) Jan PS: in that context, I have even pondered about copying the system for an auxiliary gasoline heater, running additional (& separate/isolated) coolant pipes all around the engine hatch, front and rear, sides and top (if possible with a larger thermal mass too, steel or stone) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "M" Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 19:25:47 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: 24v electric cooling fan Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, Christian Brudevoll wrote: > > I suppose it would help to insulate the part of the exhaust system which is > in the engine compartment. > Some years ago someone wrote that that had reduved the temperature in the > drivers cabin. > > Christian > What about a second thermostat that kicks in the fan when the engine compartment temp gets above a certain temp? Replacement with double U-joint? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx http://forum.terrangbil.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=6412 http://www.wiberger.se/templates/din808-s.htm xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx