To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "rdoveryhoo" Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 12:26:36 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] HOW MUCH FOR A RADIATOR? Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Volvo UK have just quoted me for a new radiator for my TGB13 6x6 2" wide radiator £6,000 3" wide radiator £9,000 That's plus 17.5% vat, of course. Gulp Richard To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 21:44:37 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] HOW MUCH FOR A RADIATOR? Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 27 Jul 2005 at 12:26, rdoveryhoo wrote: > Volvo UK have just quoted me for a new radiator for my TGB13 6x6 > > 2" wide radiator £6,000 > 3" wide radiator £9,000 > > That's plus 17.5% vat, of course. > > Gulp Gold seems cheap these days, when used to fabricate a radiator. However, from a tech/data point of view I really appreciate your posting, since this is the first time that anyone mentions TWO sizes of radiator.... They probably didn't give any further specification or explanation for the two versions, did they? (most likely guess is that the 3" version is a hot-climate spec, but feel free to falsify that theory with a better explanation....:)) (any Malaysian member know the size they got? (and is 2" indeed the standard size in Europe, both civil and military?)) And of course, your question then becomes: Does any cheaper or even aftermarket solution exist? (the trick is to make sure that any aftermarket party takes the 3" version to work from, not 2"....please keep that in mind when starting such a project....:)) Willem (feel free to add even larger factory sizes....;)) Jan -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 16:46:50 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Cylinder Heads, was: Re: Exhaust, OEM & aftermarket, & headers? Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 19 Sep 2005 at 10:53, Aryan Schmitz wrote: > >On the turbobricks forum they seems to like to remove the visco fan > >by an electric one too. It does not "give" you more torque, it just > >does not "eat" the torque 8) I know a Kenlowe fits nicely but if > >anyone has a cheaper way to do so, I'm interested. > > Sounds like a good idea, although an electric fan does not turn "for > free" either, the current it draws must be generated which should > result in more drag by the generator? > > If the visco cluch would only let the fan spin when it is needed this > solution or an other electromechanical clutch should work just as > well. The question 'rigid/mechanical fan' vs 'electric fan' is a bit more subtle/complicated, perhaps also more than I tried to explain/argue in the past. A rigid fan indeed sucks quite a lot of power at higher rpm's, 5- 10hp....something an electric fan can never match *But*: at high vehicle speed, the rigid fan is completely useless, it might actually even have a negative effect on radiator/engine cooling....vehicle speed is sufficient all by itself. However, this also means that at low speed & high rpm (heavy offroad/hill-climbs), the electric fan might not be enough.... So the ideal scenario is indeed adding an electromagnetic clutch to the factory rigid fan. (but preferably one that locks without electrical current, and unlocks otherwise....so that at high speed/rpm (unlock) you have sufficient current from the alternator to feed it (aircopumps can also be nasty power drains, look at the typical fuse for those....15- 20A!). Btw, I have also been pondering a bit about the 2" vs 3" radiators, the latter being mounted on both civil & Malaysian C3-series (vs Swedish military)....with the civil version often equipped with a PTO....and it might very well be that the typical PTO-application (standing still, medium rpm, significant load) is what made Volvo decide to mount a 3" radiator, instead of 2".... Remember, most of the overheating problems with gasoline engines occur in slow traffic....simply a lack of cooling by the fan (and often worsened by engine conversions (line-6 to V8), which makes the engine-bay more crowed, = less natural airflow over the engine, especially on the rear (most of the thermic damage occurs in the rear- most cylinders)). -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]