To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Steve" Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 07:03:19 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Changing Wheel Bearing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi Guys, Gonna have to change a faulty wheel bearing soon on the front right. Does anyone have a schematic and instructions on how to do this... before I use logic and common sense, which could be a very dangerous thing! :-) Thanks and regards, Steve KL, Malaysia. To: From: "John Farmer" Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 00:26:33 -0600 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] Changing Wheel Bearing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com -----Original Message----- From: Steve [mailto:fook@pop.jaring.my] Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 1:03 AM To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Volvo303] Changing Wheel Bearing Hi Guys, Gonna have to change a faulty wheel bearing soon on the front right. Does anyone have a schematic and instructions on how to do this... before I use logic and common sense, which could be a very dangerous thing! :-) Thanks and regards, Steve KL, Malaysia. I was waiting to see if anyone else responded to this but since they did not I will attempt. I will tell you what I know but it does not come from a shop manual (rather based on memory of disassembly) and is based on 303C axles (should be the same I think). Here is a link to a scanned image that will be helpful http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/showphoto.php?photo=1422&password=&sort=1&cat=15094&page=1 There are two bearings (44,45, 37a, 38) with races and a seal (39) in each portal housing. First remove the wheel and drain the gear oil from that portal housing. You will be removing the access cover assembly (40,41) from the portal housing which will include the wheel break cylinders so you will probably need to disconnect the break lines to the wheel cylinders as well in order to remove and install the bearing races and seal. Once you remove the portal housing access cover you will see the short axle stub (on number 33) with the large reduction gear (46) held in place by a retaining nut (49) which has a tab bent on it to prevent it from rotating. This will need to be bent out so the nut can be removed (and you will need to get a new nut to install as well - Do not reuse it). Remove the nut, a big washer (48), any spacers (47) and finally remove the large reduction gear (46). The large reduction gear has one wheel bearing (45) pressed on it. If you are replacing this bearing then you must press it off the large reduction gear. There are three holes in the reduction gear that give you access to the back of the bearing in order to press it off. If you have a drift that will fit these holes you can tap the bearing off using hammer. Just alternate tapping in each of the holes so that the bearing comes off straight. Since you removed the retaining nut you can now also slip the wheel hub (33) and axle stub out of the housing cover. When you do you will see that the other bearing (37a) is pressed on to the axle stub. This one I would take to a shop and have them press it off unless you have some kind of nifty puller to do the job. What you have left now is the portal box access cover that includes the races for both bearings (38,44) as well as a seal (39) between them. The inner bearing (45) is lubricated by the gear oil. The smaller bearing (37a) is packed with grease and will probably be the one that is bad. The races and seal must be tapped out of the access cover and replaced. When you do this you must use a brass drift or other soft metal so you do not damage the access housing race seating surface. Once those are removed you are finished with the dissassembly. Once you get your replacement parts you need to reassemble in the reverse order that everything came off. I will not go into details on how to pack bearings or install/seat bearings or races. There should be more info on the web if you search or you can take it all to a mechanic and pay them to reassemble. A couple of things to remember though... Make sure the seal is facing the correct way when you install and make sure you install it before any of the races are installed (it goes behind one of the races). Also there is supposed to be a bearing preload set on the axle stub retaining nut (the new one you got). Ken (from this group) sent me a note saying that the bearing preload for this nut is torque of 68-81 Nm (6,8-8,1)kpm. Finally great care should be taken that the pressed on outer seal (36) that should not be damaged in any way. I think this process can be done without removing it but be careful. This is the most expensive part I have had to purchase thus far and it is not readily available (only found it at Altyco Parts) Part Numbers based on my disassembly and matching (should be available at a local bearing shop) Small Bearing = TIMKEN JLM104948 Small Race = TIMKEN - JLM104910 Large Bearing = NTN 4T-JLM508748 Large Race = NTN 4T-JLM508710 Inner Oil Seal = STEFA CB 60X85X8 Retaining Nut = V1523031 MUTTER AXEL C3 17B73 (Available at Altyco Parts) Hope this helps (just my way of justifying my existence on this forum:) John (aka MrFarmdog) To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 17:42:33 +0300 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: Problems with brakes Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com >A friend has suggested tha it may be a perished diaphragm in the servos >nio fully returning to its rest position and thus not assisting the >return spring in the hubs...but I have not investigated that as yet. > >Any other owners noticed warm hubs in normal operation? > >Nick Brakes can cause warning up the hub but there is something much more critical heating. I been closely following temperature of the hubs. Experienced so far, off-road they do no warn up at all, on road driving they warm up very slightly, just noticeable by hand but notiable anyhow. All the hub are equally warn even on front. I think that is quite normal as there is a hub gearing. Warming up of the hub may be very fatal to portal gears. Once they warm up too much, oil will strart to burn and changes it's viscosity and stops to cool down the hub as well as lubration is not sufficiant, that will kill the hub gears very fast, only matter of kilometers more likelly that dozens of them. Play in wheel bearing changes the contact angel of the portal gears and may cause some excessive warming of the hub. There is recomendation from some users that you should overfill portals by 200-300% That makes around 0.6 - 1 liter of oil per portal. There is these upper bolts that you can use for overfilling them. I haven't yet done that but will, I was plannig for something like 0,5 liters to front and 0.6 liter to rear. Same goes with a diffrentials as well. One fellow who has Volvo portals in Range Rover has 4-5 liter oil in diff's but the axles are in diffent position, pinnion is lifted a bit due to better agle of joints in drive shaft. He started to overfil diff's once he burned pinnion bearing. No problems ever since but he was not sure is the bearing burned due to corrosion (axles was stored out in the open several years before installation) or bad lubrication. -teppo To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: jb Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 16:36:39 -0800 Subject: [Volvo303] Portal Box Bearing Numbers Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com I'm rebuilding my portal boxes at the moment. I'm looking for a Timken or other common PN for the drive gear (upper gear) bearings. I've been cross-referencing all day but still no Timken PN. I will measure them up tonight in mms. Numbers on bearings: Inner Radial Ball Bearing: "FAG F-E 6210, made in Germany" dims (1.972id x 3.540od x .784w) Outer Capped Needle Bearing: "4520 455220, Germany" dims (1.775id x 2.047odx .785w) I have the Timken PNs for the lower or driven gear, just looking for at least the radial ball bearing in a Timken number. I'm working on a solution to the "impossible" to find outer stub axle grease seal. -jb To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: jb Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 13:22:00 -0800 Subject: [Volvo303] Portal Axle Bearings & Seal LIST Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Here ya go, you're welcome. :) Volvo c300 portal axle bearings/seals bearings: Drive gear (upper/small gear) SKF/FAG 6210 (single row radial ball, open) - dims: 50x90x20 INA BK4520 (drawn cup closed needle bearing) - dims: 45x52x20 Driven gear (lower/large gear) Timken JLM104948 (tapered roller/cone) Timken JLM104910 (tapered race/cup) Timken JLM508748 (tapered roller/cone) Timken JLM508710 (tapered race/cup) seals: CR 23451 (STEFA, BB - dims:60x85x8), upper portal/axletube oil seal CR 19687 (STEFA, BB - dims:50x90x10), inner hub grease/oil seal STEFA, BY 80x92x28 (pn#32896 1) - outer hub grease seal -- *this is the impossible to find seal. pricing (www.bearing.com on 2/3/2006): SKF/FAG 6210 $23.91 INA BK4520 $13.93 Timken JLM104948 $10.86 Timken JLM104910 $4.78 Timken JLM508748 $20.18 Timken JLM508710 $23.53 CR 23451 $3.00 CR 19687 $3.88 -- -j bobsled b if you have to ask, then you weren't there. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: jb Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 12:21:16 -0800 Subject: [Volvo303] Bearing list addition/update Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com I found another bearing for the upper drive gear outer needle bearing. IKO pn#TLAM4520 It's the same bearing as the INA, FAG or SKF piece.......but this one is in stock & costs $8 per. :) -- -j bobsled b if you have to ask, then you weren't there. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "jbt_se" Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 15:34:06 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: Portal Axle Bearings & Seal LIST Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, "Willem-Jan Markerink" wrote: > > On 3 Feb 2006 at 13:22, jb wrote: > > > Here ya go, you're welcome. :) > > Is this an (anonymous) forward of a private reply you got, or are we > dealing with a split personality here?....;)) > > > > > Volvo c300 portal axle bearings/seals > > > > bearings: > > > > Drive gear (upper/small gear) > > > > SKF/FAG 6210 (single row radial ball, open) - dims: 50x90x20 > > INA BK4520 (drawn cup closed needle bearing) - dims: 45x52x20 > > > > Driven gear (lower/large gear) > > > > Timken JLM104948 (tapered roller/cone) > > Timken JLM104910 (tapered race/cup) > > Timken JLM508748 (tapered roller/cone) > > Timken JLM508710 (tapered race/cup) > > > > seals: > > > > CR 23451 (STEFA, BB - dims:60x85x8), upper portal/axletube oil seal > > CR 19687 (STEFA, BB - dims:50x90x10), inner hub grease/oil seal > > > > STEFA, BY 80x92x28 (pn#32896 1) - outer hub grease seal -- *this is the > > impossible to find seal. > > > > pricing (www.bearing.com on 2/3/2006): > > > > SKF/FAG 6210 $23.91 > > INA BK4520 $13.93 > > Timken JLM104948 $10.86 > > Timken JLM104910 $4.78 > > Timken JLM508748 $20.18 > > Timken JLM508710 $23.53 > > CR 23451 $3.00 > > CR 19687 $3.88 > > -- > > -j bobsled b > > > > if you have to ask, then you weren't there. > > > > No price (yet) for the hub grease seal? > > I spoke to the manufacturer of STEFA seals, Busak+Shamban in Sweden (former Forsheda STEFA AB)today. The outer hub grease seal i no longer in production and the PN# was/is: TRY0V0800-4N011 Jacob