To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "dichromate_ion" Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:35:00 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Front CV joint - stupid question Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi all, I have got to replace my front CV boot (rubber gaiter in the wheel station) and was wondering if I need to put oil back inside of it before full reassembly. If I do, what grade and how much? Sorry if a stupid question but I'm a bit new to this. As you can imagine I think this forum rocks!! Thanks in advance Nick To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Dave Duff" Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 16:37:07 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: Front CV joint - stupid question Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, "dichromate_ion" wrote: > Hi all, > > I have got to replace my front CV boot (rubber gaiter in the wheel > station) and was wondering if I need to put oil back inside of it > before full reassembly. If I do, what grade and how much? > > Sorry if a stupid question but I'm a bit new to this. As you can > imagine I think this forum rocks!! > > Thanks in advance > > Nick Hi Nick, I just did this a couple of times (on the same wheel!) after LinDen had also done it once. You don't need to add any oil before reassembly. The CV joint gets its oil from the differential so you can check the oil level there after the reassembly. I mention that I had to redo the installation a couple of timee to make a point. There's a rubber flange that's part of that boot which gets sandwiched between the end of the axle and the wheel assembly (which weighs about 35kg). When LinDen did the install they used a silicone sealant on the flange and so did I the first time I did it. In both cases the flange squished out of the seat and started leaking again. The last time I cleaned the boot and all the seating surfaces with acetone so they'd be clean and sticky and the flange finally stayed put. LinDen seems to really know what they're doing so this may have been a problem with the boot that I got. Just thought I'd pass on the experience. I'd also recommend having a friend and a floor jack handy to reinstall the wheel assembly. Regards, Dave '75 TGB11 Woodside, CA To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "anthon_ericsson" Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 23:48:36 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: Front CV joint - stupid question Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, "dichromate_ion" wrote: > --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Duff" wrote: > Hi Dave, > Thanks very much for the good advice will clean out seatings with > acetone as suggested. I'm almost feeling confident now!! > > Cheers and keep 'em rolling stateside!! > > Nick Hi there, just read your discusion. And I`m been a bit confused.... I have done some replaceing of the rubber boot as well and I think that i the repair manuall it says that you should grease the CV joint with MP grease before reassambly. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Dave Duff" Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 22:51:45 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: Front CV joint - stupid question Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- In Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, "anthon_ericsson" wrote: > Hi there, just read your discusion. And I`m been a bit confused.... > I have done some replaceing of the rubber boot as well and I think > that i the repair manuall it says that you should grease the CV joint > with MP grease before reassambly. Hi Anthon, Good point. It makes sense to grease the CV joint before reassembly. I didn't regrease mine and probably should have. It's the flange on the axle boot and the seat for it that I suggested leaving clean and dry. Regards, Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Dave Duff" Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 22:54:43 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Front CV Joint - reply to John Roddam Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com John.... are you out there?.... tried to reply to your yahoo address without luck. Dave Front axle boot removal.... Anybody who's done this please comment/correct. I think I may have repressed some of my memory of this (even though it was only three months ago!), but as I recall, yes.... Disconnect both brake lines.... be prepared with a jar or bucket to catch the leakage or q-tips(?) to plug them a bit. Disconnect the steering rod at the end of the rod... remove the nut that retains the tie rod end in the arm from the wheel, the temptation now would be to whack the end of the stud with a hammer, don't, this will scrunch the threads, instead whack the part of the arm that the rod end is seated in, give it a couple of good whacks, check to see if it's loose, repeat. It's not visually obvious that it's come loose when whacking. If this isn't clear I can send a picture. Remove the eight bolts around the flange. And now, yes, the whole assembly comes off with the half shaft. If the side of the axle that you're working on is higher then not much of the gear oil will come out. Have fun. Dave Oh...btw.. where are you? Where did you get the boot(s)? and how much were they? Thanks, Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 15:22:54 -0700 Subject: [Volvo303] Axle Boot replacement procedure Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi Folks, During the second (unsuccessful) trip to my local DEQ (smog) testing station, my right-side CV/axle boot seems to have failed, dumping axle oil all over my right-side tire and wheel. I'm going to try to do the replacement myself. I'm reasonably intelligent but have no experience with drivetrain mechanics. I've downloaded the service manuals and have located the instructions (in two places) for removing the wheel carriers/axle and getting at the boot. Would anyone have any advice to offer that might save me (and others if they find this thread) some headaches? Thanks, Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 01:16:46 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Axle Boot replacement procedure Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 1 May 2006 at 15:22, David Giller wrote: > Hi Folks, > > During the second (unsuccessful) trip to my local DEQ (smog) testing > station, my right-side CV/axle boot seems to have failed, dumping > axle oil all over my right-side tire and wheel. I have been told it is (always/most-often?) the seal towards the geared hub that fails, spilling hub-oil, not axle oil (or perhaps better put: the CV runs in the same oil as the hub, so when the CV- boot fails, you spil hub-oil). (I am not sure whether it was designed this way on purpose, but in a way this failure mode does make sense, taking only 1 hub out in a worst-case oil-drain scenario, being a relative cheap straight-cut gear set as well, instead of a complete diff, axle bearings on both sides *and* both sides of CV-joints (leaving only the hub on the other side intact)) But maybe I give the designers way too much credit here....:)) > I'm going to try to do the replacement myself. I'm reasonably > intelligent but have no experience with drivetrain mechanics. > > I've downloaded the service manuals and have located the instructions > (in two places) for removing the wheel carriers/axle and getting at > the boot. > > Would anyone have any advice to offer that might save me (and others > if they find this thread) some headaches? Unless these notes were already among the instructions you found: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_CV-joint_seal.txt http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_axle-maintenance.txt -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:47:21 -0700 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Axle Boot replacement procedure Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On May 1, 2006, at 4:16 PM, Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > I have been told it is (always/most-often?) the seal towards the > geared hub that fails, spilling hub-oil, not axle oil (or perhaps > better put: the CV runs in the same oil as the hub, so when the CV- > boot fails, you spil hub-oil). That makes sense. > Unless these notes were already among the instructions you found: > > http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_CV-joint_seal.txt > > http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_axle-maintenance.txt I hadn't found those. Those are very useful, thank you. -Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 02:00:21 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Axle Boot replacement procedure Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 1 May 2006 at 16:47, David Giller wrote: > On May 1, 2006, at 4:16 PM, Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > > I have been told it is (always/most-often?) the seal towards the > > geared hub that fails, spilling hub-oil, not axle oil (or perhaps > > better put: the CV runs in the same oil as the hub, so when the CV- > > boot fails, you spil hub-oil). > > That makes sense. In hindsight it now makes a bit more sense to me too, since the boot would then only leak hub-oil when it is slushed upwards, which at least doesn't happen at standstill....so that too sounds like a smarter design than having the (most failure-prone) seal towards the axle, which *would* drain at standstill. (in the same context I was told that in the worst-case scenario, it would then drain your front hub, but only at high speed, and not very fast either (but at the same time, the CV-joint runs rather dry of course (but as long as it doesn't have to transmit power (front axle engaged), it should not suffer much probably)) Comments & (counter-)opinions welcome of course....:)) > > Unless these notes were already among the instructions you found: > > > > http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_CV-joint_seal.txt > > > > http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/volvo_axle-maintenance.txt > > I hadn't found those. Those are very useful, thank you. You are welcome; spread & learn, feedback & finetune....:)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Teppo Rapo Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 09:07:20 +0300 (EEST) Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Axle Boot replacement procedure Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com David Giller kirjoitti 02.05.2006 kello 01:22: > Hi Folks, > > During the second (unsuccessful) trip to my local DEQ (smog) testing > station, my right-side CV/axle boot seems to have failed, dumping > axle oil all over my right-side tire and wheel. > > I'm going to try to do the replacement myself. I'm reasonably > intelligent but have no experience with drivetrain mechanics. > > I've downloaded the service manuals and have located the instructions > (in two places) for removing the wheel carriers/axle and getting at > the boot. > > Would anyone have any advice to offer that might save me (and others > if they find this thread) some headaches? > > Thanks, > Dave CV boot is very simple to replace, few tips that I know. I have not done this my self but few of my friends have. First of all to all of you, be aware that if you boot is leaking it will drain oil from DIFF TO HUB and some of the leaking oil can be from a diff instead! Seen this couple of times now from few cars. If you have a leak see the oil level in the diff every now and then. First, if you are replacing the boot from a right (was it right)side, remember to engage diff-locker as locking ring may fall when you remone drive shaft. Then you just need to remove portabox as a whole unit, no need to tear it into parts, just release it from a axle tube, was there 7 bolts or so. Then as you may know, the boot is in between the axle-tube and portal box as it is not rotating as normal civil-car boot. Here lies another trick. New boot is ~1mm too small t o it's slot, so to get it correctly installed you need to super-glue it to portal hub (if I racall correctly) before installation. this prevents it to fall of when installed. If you miss to instal this properly you will see it fast as there will be huge oil leak. Sorry about "brief" explanation but as I told you I have not done this my self yet. Hope there is any help. Friend of mine said that this is so easy that it could be done when ever in the woods if needed. There is few pic's about this done on this thread: http://www.petrisimolin.com/ThePalsta/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24373 -teppo Teppo Rapo +358 40 5508394 Riimusauvantie 9 FIN-00740 Helsinki To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 12:19:16 -0700 Subject: [Volvo303] Source for CV boots in the western US Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Just ordered some of these boots from a local Volvo dealer in Portland. They are clearly a current part for some other Volvo trucks, because according to the fellow I spoke to, they have "lots of them" in stock. TEC Equipment Inc 750 NE Columbia Blvd. Portland, OR 97211 Voice: (503) 285-7667 TollFree: (800) 525-6333 http://www.tectrucks.com/ Volvo part number: 1563012-2. Cost: $45 and change. If you need boots and are having trouble locating them, give these folks a call. They have locations up and down the west coast. Now, I haven't picked up the parts yet, so there's a chance that they are wrong, but this guy didn't seem confused about what he put in will- call for me. I don't know if they ship mail-order-style, but if you need boots and TEC aren't interested in shipping them, shoot me an e-mail. I can pick some up and send them to you. Thanks to Jim Molloy for pointing me to them. Jim believes that these guys are savvy to the C3 series, and that they have copies of the C3 manual on paper and CDROM. Cheers, Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "David Touitou" Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:21:49 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Hi guys. It seems there's no oil leak while driving but some oil is dropping on the wheel (well, tire actually) when the truck is stopped, even after a 3 kilometers ride... So I guess left front CV joint is dead (any other diagnostic is of course welcome). I have to check the "evacuation system", I'm wandering if the weather being hot lately here (+200 km drive an extremely hot day) did not overpressured the front axle and lead to the broken joint. Question to the guy who changed them lately (I read a few messages about it) : did you order the remplacement in a "Volvo Cars" or "Volvo Trucks" shop ? I suppose it's more "Volvo Cars" but... Thanks, David. To: From: "Greg David" Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:01:07 -0700 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com -----Original Message----- From: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Volvo303@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Touitou Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 7:22 AM > Hi guys. > > It seems there's no oil leak while driving but some oil is dropping on > the wheel (well, tire actually) when the truck is stopped, even after > a 3 kilometers ride... > > So I guess left front CV joint is dead (any other diagnostic is of > course welcome).=20 > > I have to check the "evacuation system", I'm wandering if the weather > being hot lately here (+200 km drive an extremely hot day) did not > overpressured the front axle and lead to the broken joint. > > Question to the guy who changed them lately (I read a few messages > about it) : did you order the remplacement in a "Volvo Cars" or "Volvo > Trucks" shop ? > > I suppose it's more "Volvo Cars" but... > > Thanks, > David. They seem to be commonly available through Volvo truck dealers if your local one is willing to order them. The part number is in the system, but they usually don't have books or any familiarity of the 303 series. Your best bet is to do some searches in the archives for "boot" and you will get a ton of information on both where to buy them and how to replace them. Cheers! Greg To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: jb Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:05:33 -0700 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 8/13/06, David Touitou wrote: > > Hi guys. > > It seems there's no oil leak while driving but some oil is dropping on > the wheel (well, tire actually) when the truck is stopped, even after > a 3 kilometers ride... > > So I guess left front CV joint is dead (any other diagnostic is of > course welcome). > > I have to check the "evacuation system", I'm wandering if the weather > being hot lately here (+200 km drive an extremely hot day) did not > overpressured the front axle and lead to the broken joint. > > Question to the guy who changed them lately (I read a few messages > about it) : did you order the remplacement in a "Volvo Cars" or "Volvo > Trucks" shop ? > > I suppose it's more "Volvo Cars" but... > > Thanks, > David. > That would be the CV BOOT, not the CV joint itself. The warmer weather may be contributing to the leak by making the fluid more.........well, fluid. :) -jb To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:48:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On Aug 13, 2006, at 7:21 AM, David Touitou wrote: > Hi guys. > > It seems there's no oil leak while driving but some oil is dropping on > the wheel (well, tire actually) when the truck is stopped, even after > a 3 kilometers ride... > > So I guess left front CV joint is dead (any other diagnostic is of > course welcome). > > I have to check the "evacuation system", I'm wandering if the weather > being hot lately here (+200 km drive an extremely hot day) did not > overpressured the front axle and lead to the broken joint. > > Question to the guy who changed them lately (I read a few messages > about it) : did you order the remplacement in a "Volvo Cars" or "Volvo > Trucks" shop ? > > I suppose it's more "Volvo Cars" but... > > Thanks, > David. I changed mine Saturday. It was much easier than I expected. It helps that there were no rusted/frozen bolts, etc. I'm pleased to see that everything in my diff looks brand new and the portal rotates silky smooth when off the truck. The axle is vented, and the portal is not sealed air-tight from the axle housing, so I doubt that it's a pressure thing. Probably just a new leak, like mine was. Probably your joint isn't bad, just the boot. Or is that what you meant? Don't drive it though... when the CV boot leaks, if you lose too much oil it's not just the CV joint that goes dry, but the portal box, and of course those are very expensive to fix/replace. Turn your wheels all the way to one side, then stretch the rubber bellows out on the side that's exposed. The boot doesn't rotate with the axle, it is fixed, so the same section of boot is stretched/ compressed when you turn the wheels. I bet you will find a part that's wet with oil on the front or back, and it will have a crack where the rubber has fatigued. Here are my notes on the CV boot: -- Volvo CV Boot Volvo part number: 1563012 (or possibly 1563012-2). parts catalog: "Cover" or "Casing" service manual: "Rubber Bellows" -- I bought my boot at a local truck parts dealer. They had 15 in stock. I asked them to cross-reference and see if the boot is used on any other Volvo truck. They had no listings. If you find one at a local truck parts dealer, you might ask them to try. When you go to change the boot, do this trick: cut two pieces of 1/2"-13 all-thread (yes, it's definitely a non-metric size, 1/2 inch threaded rod with 13 threads per inch) about 2.5 inches long. When you remove the two top bolts securing the outer axle/knuckle/portal unit to the axle housing, thread in the threaded rod far enough so it is engaging all of the threads in the knuckle houing (about 1/2"). Use these as guides for removing and reassembling. The hardest parts are removing the old boot (it has a plastic ring that is pressed into the portal box), installing the new one (I used a dowel and tapped around the perimeter), and inserting the axle back through the locking ring and the side gears. Just remember you probably will have to rotate the axle around until the splines engage, and don't press too hard on the locking ring (it might be possible to damage the vacuum actuator for the axle lock). While apart, I got a look at the CV joint itself. I must say, it's an impressively beefy part. No wonder you don't hear about them breaking much. Cheers, Dave To: From: "Greg David" Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:10:38 -0700 Subject: RE: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Volvo303@yahoogroups.com] On=20=20 > Behalf Of David Giller > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 12:49 PM > To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! > > > I changed mine Saturday. > > It was much easier than I expected. It helps that there were no > rusted/frozen bolts, etc. I'm pleased to see that everything in my > diff looks brand new and the portal rotates silky smooth when off the > truck. > > The axle is vented, and the portal is not sealed air-tight from the > axle housing, so I doubt that it's a pressure thing. Probably just a > new leak, like mine was. > > Probably your joint isn't bad, just the boot. Or is that what you > meant? Don't drive it though... when the CV boot leaks, if you lose > too much oil it's not just the CV joint that goes dry, but the portal > box, and of course those are very expensive to fix/replace. > > Turn your wheels all the way to one side, then stretch the rubber > bellows out on the side that's exposed. The boot doesn't rotate with > the axle, it is fixed, so the same section of boot is stretched/ > compressed when you turn the wheels. I bet you will find a part > that's wet with oil on the front or back, and it will have a crack > where the rubber has fatigued. > > Here are my notes on the CV boot: > > -- > > Volvo CV Boot > > Volvo part number: 1563012 (or possibly 1563012-2). > > parts catalog: "Cover" or "Casing" > service manual: "Rubber Bellows" > > -- > > I bought my boot at a local truck parts dealer. They had 15 in > stock. I asked them to cross-reference and see if the boot is used > on any other Volvo truck. They had no listings. If you find one at > a local truck parts dealer, you might ask them to try. > > When you go to change the boot, do this trick: cut two pieces of > 1/2"-13 all-thread (yes, it's definitely a non-metric size, 1/2 inch > threaded rod with 13 threads per inch) about 2.5 inches long. When > you remove the two top bolts securing the outer axle/knuckle/portal > unit to the axle housing, thread in the threaded rod far enough so it > is engaging all of the threads in the knuckle houing (about 1/2"). > Use these as guides for removing and reassembling. > > The hardest parts are removing the old boot (it has a plastic ring > that is pressed into the portal box), installing the new one (I used > a dowel and tapped around the perimeter), and inserting the axle back > through the locking ring and the side gears. Just remember you > probably will have to rotate the axle around until the splines > engage, and don't press too hard on the locking ring (it might be > possible to damage the vacuum actuator for the axle lock). > > While apart, I got a look at the CV joint itself. I must say, it's > an impressively beefy part. No wonder you don't hear about them > breaking much. > > Cheers, > Dave Instead of threaded rod, I used a couple 4" or so grade 8 bolts and cut the heads off. Then I rounded the tips on a grinder. This gives you a nice smooth surface to slide the housing on when reassembling. The bolts will also be a lot less likely to bend if you hang the weight of the portal on them. They actually look just like the factory alignment pins! When seating the boot, I managed to find a PVC pipe fitting that was the correct diameter to seat against the full perimeter of the boot. This let me seat it squarely without the tendency for it to tilt out of place. Check the archives for more tips on this process. I would venture to guess that it is probably the one repair that virtually every 303 owner has tackled thus far. Cheers! Greg To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 14:41:32 -0700 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On Aug 14, 2006, at 1:10 PM, Greg David wrote: > Instead of threaded rod, I used a couple 4=94 or so grade 8 bolts and > cut the heads off. Then I rounded the tips on a grinder. This gives > you a nice smooth surface to slide the housing on when > reassembling. The bolts will also be a lot less likely to bend if > you hang the weight of the portal on them. They actually look just > like the factory alignment pins! > > > When seating the boot, I managed to find a PVC pipe fitting that > was the correct diameter to seat against the full perimeter of the > boot. This let me seat it squarely without the tendency for it to > tilt out of place. > > > Check the archives for more tips on this process. I would venture > to guess that it is probably the one repair that virtually every > 303 owner has tackled thus far. > > > Cheers! > > > Greg > > Yes, I went with all-thread because I used a floor jack and a friend to help hold up the portal unit. The bolts were just for alignment, and didn't hold the weight of the portal box, and I didn't want to spend 10 minutes with a hack saw on grade-8 bolts. The threads won't hurt the flange on the axle housing. I wouldn't try it again without both the jack and the helper. Having done it once, I'd say I could do it again in about an hour. A professional mechanic with a proper tranny jack could probably do it in half that time or less. More tips for those who aren't terribly experienced auto mechanics (like me): If you do use a jack to support the weight, be careful not to crush the grease fitting on the bottom of the steering knuckle. You will have to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle. Here's something that pro mechanics know in their sleep but amateurs sometimes learn the hard way: Don't hit any part of the tie rod, the rod end, or the nut with a hammer or you will damage the joint. There are probably correct tools and procedures for this, but here's how I did it: Jack the truck up and put it SECURELY on jack stands before removing the tire. I used two on the leaf spring and one under the axle. These trucks are tall and heavy: use truck-size jack stands and make sure they are secure. I backed off the nut from the tie rod about 5 turns (1/8" or 2cm). I put a block of wood on top of the floor jack and raised it up under the nut, and put some pressure on it. Not enough to lift the truck at all, just enough to know that you have a fair bit of pressure on the joint. Then, using a 3-lb hand sledge, I gently tapped the knuckle where the steering rod attaches. It took about 8 taps and the joint popped free. I often hear people say that you just bang on the knuckle till the joint pops free, but I've tried that on other vehicles and you can pound on it for a long time without anything happening, and frustration leads to mistakes. If anyone thinks what I did was unsafe, please correct me. Cheers, Dave To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Alan H." Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:33:31 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: IT'S LEAKING ! Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com ... > I backed off the nut from the tie rod about 5 turns (1/8" or 2cm). I > put a block of wood on top of the floor jack and raised it up under > the nut, and put some pressure on it. Not enough to lift the truck > at all, just enough to know that you have a fair bit of pressure on > the joint. Then, using a 3-lb hand sledge, I gently tapped the > knuckle where the steering rod attaches. It took about 8 taps and > the joint popped free. > > I often hear people say that you just bang on the knuckle till the > joint pops free, but I've tried that on other vehicles and you can > pound on it for a long time without anything happening, and > frustration leads to mistakes. If anyone thinks what I did was > unsafe, please correct me. ... To remove the steering knuckle, I used a Pitman arm puller I got from the local NAPA parts store. It was moderately expensive at around US $36, but it made the job easy. Now that I have the tool, I won't need to make that kind of repair in the future either! (At least that's the way it seems to go - buy tools, use them once.) To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: David Giller Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 21:09:34 -0700 Subject: [Volvo303] Tips for CV boot replacement Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com I know I'm rambling on about replacing CV boots lately, but here are three more tips I learned this weekend, primarily for other folks like me who don't have much mechanical experience: - There is a very small ridge at the outside edge of the rubber flange of the boot that is clamped to the axle flange. It mates with a machined groove in the face of the axle flange. The ridge is not obvious, but it is clearly designed as part of the retention for the boot. When you reassemble the wheel carrier to the axle, make sure the steering knuckle is perfectly straight, and not cocked to one side at all. If it is crooked, it will pull the boot out of center and the ridge will not align with the groove in the axle flange. - Do not, as I did, figure that a little grease around the flange "can't hurt" and might help seal what might otherwise turn into slow leaks. It only serves to lubricate the rubber flange, which you don't want to do, because it can allow the knuckle to tug the boot right out of position on tight turns. That's exactly what it did to me on Friday on the way to the Tillamook State Forest. The boot, which was not seated properly, and lubricated allowing it to be even more easily dislodged, was pulled completely free at the rear, opening a 1/4" hole on tight right turns for the axle housing oil to splash out. Fortunately I caught it right away and was able to keep filling the housing with oil until I got it home for repair. Aligned properly and without any grease or other sealant, the boot sealed the axle correctly and it didn't leak a drop after that. - Do engage the front axle lock before removing the wheel carrier as suggested by others here, when doing the right side boot. The first time I replaced the boot, I was able to slide the axle back into the splines of both the ring and the side gears without any problem, and the shop manual says nothing about the axle lock, so I figured it was unnecessary. But the second time, the locking ring was not aligned well with the side gears, and it was a major pain to get both sets of splines engaged again. Save yourself the potential grief and lock it up before you remove the axle. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 01:34:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Tips for CV boot replacement Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Not only do you want to make sure that it is clean and dry, don't put any sort of gasket sealer on it either. Silicone gasket sealers actually act as a lubricant and cause it to do the same thing as you experienced. Cheers! Greg To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: Ian Woodward Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 14:56:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com --- On Thu, 12/6/08, Liher <liher@tele2.es> wrote: From: liher@tele2.es Received: Thursday, 12 June, 2008, 7:12 AM > What is this strange oil from the front wheel and where is it coming from? > how do I fix it? > > I think it wasn't loosing the oil when I bought the car > > http://picasaweb. google.com/ liherrz/OurVolvo C303Project/ photo#5210733767 322134114 > http://picasaweb. google.com/ liherrz/OurVolvo C303Project/ photo#5210733730 212426850 > http://picasaweb. google.com/ liherrz/OurVolvo C303Project/ photo#5210733808 730446786 I hope it is not a big problem... Looks like your CV boots need replacing. This is the rubber boot between the fixed section of the axle and the steering section. It's a very common problem on these trucks, but luckily not too difficult to do (assuming you can get the parts). They can fail quite suddenly too, which perhaps explains why it wasn't leaking when you bought the car. Mine failed on the way to the vehicle inspection for registration, but luckliy the inspector was too interested in the rest of the truck to notice. Have fun. Ian. To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 16:27:23 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 12 Jun 2008 at 6:14, Liher wrote: > Something like this? > > http://www.cvboots.com.au/homepage_files/image003.jpg > > Is it a standard piece and any other vehicle fits? > Maybe someone of you bought them online? > > Can I run with this broken? I am still not 100% sure, but AFAIK, the stock Volvo item is made from rubber, while some guys in Finland have started an aftermarket production batch made from poly-urethane, also cheaper than stock. (sadly only in black, not bright yellow/orange/green/purple, as I might have choosen....;)) http://www.offroadtarvike.fi/ Rumour 1: apparently the Swedish military recently received a larger batch of stock Volvo CV-boots. Rumour 2: apparently they were brand new, straight from Trelleborg (largest Swedish rubber manufacturer) Rumour 3: the ones we, civil/private users, order from Volvo are old stock, hence more prone to cracking again relatively soon. (which I can confirm, after only 1-2 years and 20k km's....while they are not leaking yet, they do show hair-cracks, that are not present on slip-joint boots (same age/mileage)) Again, all rumours, but my source was both close to Volvo and to the military.... Btw, another rubber wear item, the 'washers' mounted outside of the spring- eyes[*], has already been replaced/superceeded by Volvo to poly-urethane....the set I got recently (you need 2x3x2=12 pieces pro axle) was already made from somewhat translucent beige/yellow PU. The only detail missing is that the spring eye bolts are not greaseable, which normally is something that you combine with PU, at least in most aftermarket 4x4 applications (otherwise it tends to squeak over time....while with original rubber you couldn't use grease in the first place, because rubber doesn't like (mineral?) oil/grease). (while typing, I just realize that 'squeaking' would be the last worry on an otherwise already maddening loud Volvo....hence a completely irrelevant argument, leaves only the factor 'less wear', if you can grease the PU....;)) [*] separate/split item, amazingly smart actually; on any other vehicle, with combined eye/washer, you must remove the entire unit, when the sides are worn (metal to metal contact possible, between spring and hanger), which is a tedious process; in case of original rubber often requiring a torch to burn them out) (interesting option: easier replacement (and experiment) of the stock type of flexible rubber (or PU) for a type/quality that is either softer or harder (depending on application; soft for low-speed/trial/articulation, hard for high- speed/rally)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Liher" Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 16:43:49 -0000 Subject: [Volvo303] Re: Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com Why are these parts getting broken? because rubber gets old? Is Poliurethane lasting more? The noise is not a problem in this car I tihnk :-) To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 20:19:34 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 12 Jun 2008 at 16:43, Liher wrote: > Why are these parts getting broken? because rubber gets old? Yes, all rubber degrades over time, cracking and eventually tearing apart. All CV-boots included.... PU probably isn't everlasting either, but it sure would be heaps better than ordinary rubber. And even if the factory Volvo unit isn't real rubber, it surely should be improvable with today's modern materials....afterall, it has been 30-40 years since the first design & choice of materials (first prototypes were launched in 1967, long before actual production (probably waiting for the Swedish military to order a large batch, and make serial production possible in the first place)). > Is Poliurethane lasting more? At *least* it would prevent the option that you get *old* stock from Volvo.... Counter-argument, falsifying the theory that the Volvo units are rubber: they get into contact with oil, hence they can't be rubber, because rubber degrades/dissolves when in contact with (mineral) oil. Possibly even better, for future aftermarket designs: a CV-boot with more ribs (folds) than currently, since it is the stretching at full steering lock that seems the largest cause of the cracks (the Finnish aftermarket solution did not increase this number of ribs, sadly). (some say that you can prevent the cracks by not turning at full steering lock, but that is about the last possible option with a long 6x6, when manoeuvering in tight spots....:)) > The noise is not a problem in this car I tihnk :-) In general context, I consider it a safety-feature, warning bikers & pedestrians in advance....hearing the danger approach, before even seeing it....:)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 00:37:15 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 12 Jun 2008 at 18:47, landcruiser1232001 wrote: > I wonder if an other type of material altogether might work. Canvas > or heavy duty gortex type. Perhaps it could instead of being > continuous corrugated cylinder it could be split along the top and > held together with a zip or Velcro or something similar. Obviously > it would have to be both waterproof and oil proof but I should > imagine a material, woven product would be tougher, perhaps a nylon, > something similar to mountaineering gaiters. Fiber-reinforcement would only be relevant if it got worn/damaged by tearing forces....while it is 'only' the bending and subsequent cracking that makes it leak over time....the leak doesn't even tear further apart. Hence my theory that even just a more flexible/flex-resistent material would do....:)) (which should be easy, 40 years after the first design (assuming it was never improved (still not sure whether those spring-eye 'washers' were intentionally changed from (true/confirmed) rubber[*] to poly-urethane, or whether it was just a matter of economical production (PU is much easier to cut/slice/turn/mill from a larger block)) OTOH, one could argue that the material should also be more stiff, since the cracks probably don't appear only because of bending by steering, but also from vibrations (up/down movement), or even wind (forward/backward movement)....hence *too* much flex itself might be bad....it just needs to be more flex-resistent.... (or stiffer, if it is not caused by bending, but by vibrations instead) [*] shit stuff, after 20k km's (of which about 2.5k km's harsh offroad/washboard) it comes out as mangled pieces of lickorice (but perhaps the constant vibrations of the Goodyears kills them too....;)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 00:40:47 +0200 Subject: Re: [Volvo303] Re: Oil loosing Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com On 12 Jun 2008 at 19:06, Liher wrote: > These ones are standard I guess? > > http://www.fmv4x4.com/index.php?action=show_page&type=alb&index=62 No, Morgan ordered a larger batch from these guys in Finland AFAIK, for a discount that allows him to sell them individually for the same price as straight from Finland (but ask him to be sure). (so it is up to you where to buy them from, or who communicates best in English (Morgan is quite okay in that respect, not sure about Finland, Teppo might know more)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] How to replace gasket without bleeding the brakes! http://forum.terrangbil.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=4464&PID=60298#60298 http://www.c303.de/c303-forum/index.php?board=36;action=display;threadid=9078;start=0 http://www.c303.de/c303-forum/index.php?board=36;action=display;threadid=8375;start=msg54314#msg54314 http://www.flickr.com/photos/43662821@N07/sets/72157622478249069/show/with/4042439580/