http://forum.buschtaxi.org/viewtopic.php?t=3506&highlight= http://forum.buschtaxi.org/viewtopic.php?t=11253&highlight= http://www.buschtaxi.de/479.0.html <=> http://www.buschtaxi.org/cms/index.php?id=479 http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch http://www.offroad80s.com/how-to-top-up-your-fan-clutch-and-do-the-blue-fan-clutch-mod-t1160.html http://www.visco-koppeling.nl/ (not Toyota) To: Subject: fan clutch fluid From: "Jim & Nela Godwin" Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 17:39:05 -0600 Does anyone have the part number for the fan clutch fluid? The local Toyota parts guys are skeptical that it exists. Help me educate them. Thanks. Jim Godwin To: landcruisers@tlca.org Subject: Re: fan clutch fluid From: Tom Pennington Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:24:25 -0800 References: <000f01c0a116$7a34b180$6b93aec7@oemcomputer> Jim & Nela Godwin wrote: > Does anyone have the part number for the fan clutch fluid? The local Toyota > parts guys are skeptical that it exists. Help me educate them. Thanks. > > Jim Godwin Jim, The part number that is on the tube that I have is: 08816-03001 It is an 18ml plastic tube. If I remember correctly it takes two tubes to rebuild the clutch. I hope this helps. Tom Pennington '79 fj40 '84 fj60 tlca# 9667 Lone Star Land Cruisers To: LandCruisers@tlca.org Subject: Re: Fan Clutch Fluid From: Mich2Track@aol.com Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:48:32 EST Toyota part #08816-03001. There is at least one other viscosity available for extreme climates. If you clean it out completely you'll need 2.5 tubes for a refill. You'll need a impact driver to open the fan clutch. Be careful with the interior rubber seal - I don't think you can get a replacement. You may want to consider replacing the fan clutch instead of refilling it. There's at least a 50/50 chance the fluid won't change your fans operation. OEM is the only good replacement. Mark in West Michigan '87 FJ-60 w/189K Lurk mode re-engaged and locke To: landcruisers@tlca.org Subject: Silicone (snake) oil for fan clutches From: "Dana Adams" Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 00:27:58 > You may want to consider replacing the fan clutch instead of > refilling it. > There's at least a 50/50 chance the fluid won't change your fans > operation. > OEM is the only good replacement. > > Mark in West Michigan > '87 FJ-60 w/189K > Lurk mode re-engaged and locked. Yep, that's what happened to me. I bought two tubes of the silicone oil from Toyota, opened up the fan clutch, cleaned it out, and poured in the new, reassembled, and it made zero difference. It still didn't work. A brand new fan clutch solved the problem. And, the aftermarket ones don't work right. I went that route once also, and ended up replacing the brand-new aftermarket with a new Toyota clutch. That solved the problem. Dana To: Subject: Re: Silicone (snake) oil for fan clutches From: rick d Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 18:02:49 +0800 In-reply-to: on 3/1/01 8:27 AM, Dana Adams at fj40dana@hotmail.com wrote: > Yep, that's what happened to me. I bought two tubes of the silicone oil > from Toyota, opened up the fan clutch, cleaned it out, and poured in the > new, reassembled, and it made zero difference. It still didn't work. A > brand new fan clutch solved the problem. > > And, the aftermarket ones don't work right. I went that route once also, > and ended up replacing the brand-new aftermarket with a new Toyota clutch. > That solved the problem. I second the factory clutch. My aftermarket leaked in under 1 month (Discount Import in Tucson thank you very much) rick From: "Paweł Górski" To: Subject: [DTLC] Fluid to fan clutch Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 21:33:12 +0200 Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net Hi, Does anybody know toyota part numer of fan clucht fluid? pawel hdj80 From: "Leblanc Charles J WI (ATL)" To: "'dtlc@helios.net'" Subject: Re: [DTLC] Fluid to fan clutch Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 14:47:36 -0500 Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net -----Original Message----- From: Pawe Grski [mailto:pol@geo.pl] Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 3:33 PM To: dtlc@helios.net Subject: [DTLC] Fluid to fan clutch > Hi, > Does anybody know toyota part numer of fan clucht fluid? > > > pawel > hdj80 Toyota P/N 08816-03001 Charles Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:01:44 +0200 From: "HEBERT Lionel" To: dtlc@helios.net Subject: [DTLC] rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net Hi all, the fan clutch of my 2LT (88 LJ73) is tired and the engine water temp rises when sitting at idle. Fan clutch over here cost around 150Euro at the dealer. When I lived in US, I rebuilt the fan clutch of my FJ62 by replacing the silicone oil in it. The problem is my local dealer nor US dealers can find this silicone oil in their database anymore (part # 08816-03001). I'm working with a US colleague to try to find an alternative oil (supplier) but I was just wondering if anyone on the list achieved this rebuilt lately and what oil he used. Thanks for your help, Lio Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:09:06 +0200 From: Denis Decoster To: dtlc@helios.net Subject: Re: [DTLC] rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net HEBERT Lionel a =E9crit: > The problem is my local dealer nor US dealers can find this silicone oil > in their database anymore (part # 08816-03001). I can't find it in my EPC microfiches, and the number doesn't work either BTW :-( From: w.j.markerink@a1.nl To: dtlc@helios.net Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 18:54:53 +0200 Subject: Re: [DTLC] rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net Cc: 80scool@yahoogroups.com, landcruisers@birfield.com On 3 Sep 2003 at 11:01, HEBERT Lionel wrote: > Hi all, > the fan clutch of my 2LT (88 LJ73) is tired and the engine water temp > rises when sitting at idle. Fan clutch over here cost around 150Euro > at the dealer. When I lived in US, I rebuilt the fan clutch of my FJ62 > by replacing the silicone oil in it. The problem is my local dealer > nor US dealers can find this silicone oil in their database anymore > (part # 08816-03001). I'm working with a US colleague to try to find > an alternative oil (supplier) but I was just wondering if anyone on > the list achieved this rebuilt lately and what oil he used. Thanks for > your help, Lio Odd, unless there was only one source of this number, and repeated by others, without anyone actually trying to order it: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/tlc_fan-clutch_fluid.txt It also mentions an alternative fluid for hot climates, but no part number.... CC to 80-series, perhaps anyone there has the hot-climate part number.... -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "Jack Nichols" Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 12:42:19 -0500 Subject: RE: [80] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com I rebuilt mine a week or so ago, and the parts guy could not find it in his computer. He asked if I had ever ordered it before (I had not) and he went into the back and rummaged around until he found it on a shelf. The invoice was for part number 08816-03001 (the same) for Silicone, Visc=30, bin 1010, list US$9.88. I bought two, and pulled the fan apart, replaced the oil, and it works fine. It may have worked before the rebuild, but I was in there to replace the radiator so rebuilt it. There were reports that the fan oil breaks down about 150,000 miles or so. Replacement viscous fan hubs were found at some place in Texas for about US$44, but I cannot find the link for it. I am sure someone here will help you on that. Here is a short paragraph about my fan clutch rebuild: "I replaced the silicone oil in the viscous drive on the cooling fan. Be prepared to use a six point socket on the nuts, and an impact unscrew tool (one of those things you hit with a hammer to loosen tight bolts) to pull it apart, otherwise no problem. Be careful of the gasket inside. Two little containers of oil cost about $US22.00." Good luck. Jack '93 To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: Jackson W Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:06:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [80] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com Willem-Jan Markerink wrote: > > CC to 80-series, perhaps anyone there has the hot-climate part > number.... > -- > Bye, > > Willem-Jan Markerink This is a post from Scott Tate: 2-3 tubes of 08816-03001, 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, light , medium and heavy viscosities. hope this helps... To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "Jack Nichols" Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 13:16:00 -0500 Subject: RE: [80] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com -----Original Message----- From: Jackson W [mailto:jackson@modelo.off-road.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 1:06 PM To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [80] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch > This is a post from Scott Tate: > > 2-3 tubes of 08816-03001, 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, light , medium and > heavy viscosities. hope this helps... Interesting. And with what weather conditions do you use with what oil? I will assume heavy would be for hottest weather, etc. If so, then I need to change mine out. Jack From: Mark Subject: [LCML] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch To: landcruisers@birfield.com Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 13:00:17 -0400 >On 3 Sep 2003 at 11:01, HEBERT Lionel wrote: > >> Hi all, >> the fan clutch of my 2LT (88 LJ73) is tired and the engine water temp >> rises when sitting at idle. Fan clutch over here cost around 150Euro >> at the dealer. When I lived in US, I rebuilt the fan clutch of my FJ62 >> by replacing the silicone oil in it. The problem is my local dealer >> nor US dealers can find this silicone oil in their database anymore >> (part # 08816-03001). I'm working with a US colleague to try to find >> an alternative oil (supplier) but I was just wondering if anyone on >> the list achieved this rebuilt lately and what oil he used. Thanks for >> your help, Lio > >Odd, unless there was only one source of this number, and repeated by >others, without anyone actually trying to order it: > >http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/tlc_fan-clutch_fluid.txt > >It also mentions an alternative fluid for hot climates, but no part >number.... > >CC to 80-series, perhaps anyone there has the hot-climate part >number.... Funny, this is a part of Toyota Trails Tech Exchange this month (got it yesterday!) Anyway, Mark Whatley mentions the same part number for the oil.... Mark From: Stuart Kreitman To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: [LCML] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch - source of silicone oil Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:55:53 -0700 FYI, there is a possible low cost substitute for toyota factory issue fan clutch oil- R/C car shock fluid is also silicone oil with a CST specification. I have not tried this, but it is worth a try, the r/c stuff is a lot cheaper. -- Stuart Kreitman From: "Coolerman" To: Subject: RE: [LCML] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch - source of silicone oil Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:04:51 -0400 Found this also: http://www.nichols.nu/tip482.htm xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Engine Cooling Cooling Fan Clutch Rehab The 928 (up thru MY86) uses a thermostatically-controlled silicone fluid cooling fan clutch. By failing to move enough air through the radiator, this clutch may well be responsible for many of the high-temperature problems that we experience. Since a replacement clutch lists for about $400 and sells for about $300, not many of us will replace it on suspicion alone, and there isn't a test that tell us whether it is slipping due to a loss of silicone fluid. There is, however, a repair procedure for the clutch. This procedure is not Porsche-approved, and will not guarantee original performance of the clutch, but it will greatly improve the performance of a faulty clutch. I would expect this to take you one or two hours to complete. Try the procedure at your own risk. I don't know of any way that this could damage your car, but if you find a way to do so, don't blame me! YMMV! 1. Toyota uses a similar fan clutch, but they also sell silicone fluid to refill their clutches. Go to your Toyota dealer, and buy two bottles of this silicone oil, at a cost of $6 or $7 for a very small bottle. You will also eed a small quantity of silicone sealer (RTV), and a heat source. The best is a flameless hot air gun, but you might be able to use a propane torch if you are VERY careful. 2. Remove your cooling fan, complete with fan, clutch, bracket and pulley. No disassembly of the fan unit is required except as detailed in Steps 4 and 5. 3. Carefully clean the fan unit, especially the front face of the clutch, which faces the radiator. Clamp the fan bracket to a work surface with the fan face-up in a horizontal position, leaving the fan free to rotate. 4. There should be a 1" x 3" piece of sheet metal across the center of the clutch. This is a bimetallic element. DON'T BEND IT! The strip is retained by slots cut into the ribs on the fan, and is kept from rotating out of the slots by small dabs of silicone sealer (RTV). Remove the RTV, and CAREFULLY slide the strip slightly to free it from the ribs. Remember which side is up. 5. Under the strip should be a silicone rubber grommet, with a small metal rod in the center of the grommet. Remove the rod, being careful to not lose it. Remove the grommet, being careful not to tear it. Cut the tip off the bottle of silicone oil at the very end. 6. Heat the fan clutch while rotating the fan and clutch at a moderate speed. (Be careful not to overheat and damage the fan.) This expands the air in the clutch, and moves the oil in the clutch to the outer edges. 7. Remove the heat source. Continue to rotate the fan and clutch, and drip the oil into the grommet hole. The combination of cooling and rotation will pull the oil in and distribute it to the outer edges. When oil stops going into the hole, repeat the cycle of heating and cooling. I suggest using two bottles, since there is no way of knowing how much oil is really needed. 8. Replace the grommet, and insert the metal rod. Carefully replace the metal strip, being certain to not bend it, and to get the right side up. Apply small dabs of RTV to keep it from moving. 9. Reinstall the fan unit. Let me know whether or not the procedure helped your overheating problems. Wally Plumley 928 Specialists Toyota dealer says there's three types of viscous fan clutch silicone. They are rated at 3000 CST, 4000 CST, and 10,000 CST. All priced the same. Parts jock didn't know what the difference was, or even what CSTmeans. Any guess as to which to use? Bry What I used was the 3000 CST - Toyota Part number 08816-03001. I did not know there was a choice. This is what the counter man ordered up. Get two bottles - mine took over one and a half. Dan B. I would go with the 10,000 CST, as it would be the thickest and would transfer more power to the fan. Wally I'll probably regret this but I went with the 3,000 Cst. The only reference to this stuff that the Toyota parts jock could find, was a TSB from 1975 specifying the fill procedure for the clutches of that year, which evidently arrived empty. The 3,000 Cst. was for all Toyotas except for the Celica, which got 6,000 Cst. The 10,000 Cst. was not assigned an application by the TSB. He guessed maybe the Land Cruiser but didn't really know. Anyway, the part numbers are 08816-03001, 08816-06001, and 08816-10001, respectively. Bry A small update for Wally's procedure, in the interest of speed, and reduced pain. I thought I would try pushing the stuff in with a small hypodermic, which we had from one of the pets getting something. The idea was to avoid the slow dropping process, and waiting for air bubbles to emerge. The silicon however is so thick it is even slower than drops trying to push it through the needle. So then I took the needle off - the end of the syringe is about 3mm dia, so I just pushed it in the little centre hole, and pushed the plunger -imagine my surprise when I met almost no resistance, and the whole 3ml went straight in! On removing the syringe from the hole some silicon bubbled back out, so I had to suck it back up. Next time, I kept the syringe end in the hole for a minute or so, kept topping it up in place, pushing more in (until I ran out!). If you wait a bit after pushing the last in, watch for any pushing back out, you will have minimal losses pushing back out. Took about 2 minutes to push 18ml in - back to Toyota for more on Saturday, to make sure it is FULL! John Pitman Riyadh 83 Euro S A/T White/white 41K Mile I found that Dow corning sell silicone oil, grade DC 200/10,000 fluid is fine, it's about 22 UK pounds. I bought it from Merck, a UK based laboratory supplies company who my company has an account with. They are the UK Dow silicones agent. I tried the Toyota parts network, but they did not recognise the listed parts numbers. The following link may be helpful for sourcing equivalents in the US: http://www.polysi.com/technicaldata.htm I tried the various ideas for refilling the viscous coupling. Having removed the bimetallic strip and the push rod, the syringe method worked well, but the oil ran out rather easily again, so I plan to make a slightly oversized pushrod as the rubber bush is clearly a nonstandard item and not that easy to source a replacement. I was at least pleased to note that the input shaft oil seal was not leaking, though that looks like a standard industrial part. Silicone oils are notorious for leaking and getting everywhere, so sealing is clearly going to be a pain. The reason for using a silicone oil is that they do not change viscosity anything like as much as regular hydrocarbon oils. For my first go, I refilled with the 50 cSt ( centistokes) but that is too thin, and the drag too weak to move much air. Hope this helps someone. Regards, John Sherborne 928 S2 1984 ---See also--- John Krawczyk's web site 928 Tips Home Greg's Home From: "Coolerman" To: Subject: RE: [LCML] Re: rebuilt of a fan clutch - source of silicone oil Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:21:17 -0400 More links I found: (Not much going on at work today...) http://forums.vmag.com/suvmontero1200/messages/4127.html http://www.kyosho.com/parts/xr31211b.html go all the way to the bottom for silicone shock oil in different ratings http://www.eal-nz.com/active/details.asp?cCode=fanclutch http://www.goldtown-phils.com/lubricants/carcare4.htm another source for oil From: FJ40Jim@aol.com To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: [LCML] Re: silicon fan clutch fluid Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 12:39:53 -0400 In a message dated 9/4/2003, landcruisers-request@birfield.com writes: > PS, the question raised on one of the non-Cruiser sites > mentioned > there: could the spec 'CST 3000/4000/10000' perhaps mean > ColdStartTemperature?? > Like 100 Fahrenheit? W.J., The CST designation is probably the abbreviation for CentiStokes, the laboratory measuring unit for viscosity. Thanks, Jim Chenoweth TLC Performance Lancaster Ohio, USA From: "Jeff Zepp" To: Subject: Re: [LCML] Re: silicon fan clutch fluid Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:23:54 -0600 Jim C. wrote: > >In a message dated 9/4/2003, landcruisers-request@birfield.com writes: >> PS, the question raised on one of the non-Cruiser sites >> mentioned >> there: could the spec 'CST 3000/4000/10000' perhaps mean >> ColdStartTemperature?? >> Like 100 Fahrenheit? >> > >W.J., >The CST designation is probably the abbreviation for CentiStokes, the >laboratory measuring unit for viscosity. Quite true, but a viscosity of 10000 wouldn't even pour...you'd have to use the durometer scale for it :-) It's more likely that 3000 is 30 cst, 4000 is 40, etc. A viscosity of 30 is like cooking oil, 100 would be like honey. Dow make silicone oil (called Dow 200 fluid) which we use for our constant temperature baths where I work. I have often thought that it would make good fan clutch oil. We use 10 cst (low temp) and 30 cst (high temp). Jeff Zepp Kittredge CO USA 1971 (Moab Tested!) & 1976 (Under Construction) FJ40s Rising Sun 4WD Club/TLCA #4063 http://members.aol.com/jeffzepp From: Eric Cline To: LCML Subject: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:32:11 -0700 (PDT) Hey listers- My fan clutch has locked up and it won't freewheel. I read the article in the TT last night to get some ideas. According to Mark, the bearing is probably frozen, which doesn't surprise me since I overheated the truck pretty bad a couple of weeks ago. Anyone rebuild one of these down to the bearings? I was planning on doing the silicone/o-ring rebuild, what else should I plan for? Anyone have part numbers? Would it be easier to get a new fan clutch if the bearings are frozen? Thanks in advance, as always! Eric From: "Brandon Austin" To: Subject: RE: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:36:08 -0700 > > Anyone rebuild one of these down to the bearings? I > was planning on doing the silicone/o-ring rebuild, > what else should I plan for? Anyone have part numbers? > Would it be easier to get a new fan clutch if the > bearings are frozen? I haven't rebuilt one, but I think the cost of oil (if the dealer can get it) is pretty high. Check out http://slowspeed.com/repair/fanclutch.html for the procedure and part number (good write up). On the other hand, Heart of Texas Offroad has a good price on a new one ($49 I think). Not affiliated just a web surfer. I think his site is down/being rebuilt right now but his number is 866.FJnotCJ. HTH Brandon Austin Olympia, WA '87 FJ60 (2FTBI), '72 FJ55, M416A1 From: Mark Whatley To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: Re: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:19:44 -0800 Brandon Austin wrote: >>Anyone rebuild one of these down to the bearings? I >>was planning on doing the silicone/o-ring rebuild, >>what else should I plan for? Anyone have part numbers? >>Would it be easier to get a new fan clutch if the >>bearings are frozen? > > > > I haven't rebuilt one, but I think the cost of oil (if the dealer can get > it) is pretty high. Check out http://slowspeed.com/repair/fanclutch.html > for the procedure and part number (good write up). I think that the oil is about $9 a vial. It is a current item in the Toyota inventory, so there should not be any problems in getting it. I am intrigued by the comments made by someomne here on the list recently (Jeff Zepp was it you?) about aquiring similar oil in larger quanities and much lower cost from some other source. > > On the other hand, Heart of Texas Offroad has a good price on a new one ($49 > I think). Not affiliated just a web surfer. I think his site is down/being > rebuilt right now but his number is 866.FJnotCJ. If that is a true Toyota or honest clone of the Toyota fan clutch that is a very good price. If it is the more common generic aaftermarket replacement, then it is about average Mark... From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: Re: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:09:10 +0200 On 23 Sep 2003 at 10:19, Mark Whatley wrote: > Brandon Austin wrote: > > > >>Anyone rebuild one of these down to the bearings? I > >>was planning on doing the silicone/o-ring rebuild, > >>what else should I plan for? Anyone have part numbers? > >>Would it be easier to get a new fan clutch if the > >>bearings are frozen? > > > > > > > > I haven't rebuilt one, but I think the cost of oil (if the dealer > > can get it) is pretty high. Check out > > http://slowspeed.com/repair/fanclutch.html for the procedure and > > part number (good write up). > > I think that the oil is about $9 a vial. It is a current item in > the > Toyota inventory, so there should not be any problems in getting it. More than one person did report problems when ordering it with a partnumber that everone says it's correct (see URL below). > I am intrigued by the comments made by someomne here on the list > recently (Jeff Zepp was it you?) about aquiring similar oil in larger > quanities and much lower cost from some other source. I thought I had added all relevant messages from that recent thread to this file, but can't find that detail about bulk sources (sure it was on this list?): http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/tlc_fan-clutch_fluid.txt -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] From: "Jeff Zepp" To: Subject: Re: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:19:00 -0600 Mark Whatley wrote: > I am intrigued by the comments made by someomne here on the list >recently (Jeff Zepp was it you?) about aquiring similar oil in larger >quanities and much lower cost from some other source. Yup that was me. It's call Dow 200 fluid and is available in different viscosities. We use 5 cst and 20 cst, but I think it's available in 10 cst and 100 cst. also. The 5 cst is kinda runny, and the 20 is about like maple syrup, 100 would be like honey. No idea what viscosity "stock" fluid is, but this is good, laboratory grade stuff. We pay a couple hundred bucks for a 5 gallon container. It is purchased from any Dow chemical distributor. I am sure it is available in smaller and larger containers too. I remember when I used to design high power supplies we could get pint containers of Dow transformer oil as free samples. This is the silicone oil which has replaced PCB based oil for large power distribution transformers. Jeff Zepp Kittredge CO USA 1971 (Moab Tested!) & 1976 (Under Construction) FJ40s Rising Sun 4WD Club/TLCA #4063 http://members.aol.com/jeffzepp From: j m To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: [LCML] HOT fan clutch Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 05:23:13 -0700 (PDT) >> On the other hand, Heart of Texas Offroad has a good price on a new >> one ($49 I think). Not affiliated just a web surfer. I think his site is >> down/being rebuilt right now but his number is 866.FJnotCJ. > > If that is a true Toyota or honest clone of the Toyota fan clutch > that is a very good price. If it is the more common generic aftermarket > replacement, then it is about average > > > Mark... I have this fan clutch on my 60. It is not an exactly like the one I removed. HOT sells it as a HD version, which it appears to be... it is about an inch longer, exact bolt and hole patterns (not slotted like generics) and appears to be OEM (shafts even painted same). It has kept my 60 at half or below in Atlanta. Mark, I'll shoot you a pic so you can see. John ===== John Morris Upstate Cruisers TLCA 6149 86 FJ60 95 FZJ80 From: "Jim & Nela Godwin" To: Subject: Re: [LCML] Fan clutch questions... Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:19:21 -0500 > > On the other hand, Heart of Texas Offroad has a good price on a new one ($49 > > I think). Not affiliated just a web surfer. I think his site is down/being > > rebuilt right now but his number is 866.FJnotCJ. > > If that is a true Toyota or honest clone of the Toyota fan clutch > that is a very good price. If it is the more common generic aaftermarket > replacement, then it is about average It is an Aisin fan clutch, at least the one I bought a few months ago. The physical difference that I noted was that the pedestal is longer moving the fan closer to the radiator. Things still fit ok and there's no interference plus you have more room for your fingers in getting those little nuts started. Now I installed this on a 3FE. This fan clutch is a poor choice for this engine, and in talking with Robert later he stated that the clutches are for 2Fs. This clutch does not kick in with the enthusiasm of a good working OEM 3FE type clutch, so if don't go this route if you're looking for a fan clutch to go on something other than a 2F. Jim Godwin [preliminary update/note-WJM 2009/09/04] 1) prices at an official Toyota dealership are about 14 euro, ex-VAT; only the lowest viscosity-spec has a listed delivery date, the medium variety is listed, but no delivery date, the heavy variety isn't listed at all. 2) After contacting my TLC-specialist All American Imports in Holland, it appears that the visco clutches themselves exist in not just 3, but even 4 colors/varieties; all having a different viscosity, and no more than 2 colors for any given market. And while the stronger viscosities are also meant as an upgrade for Africa/desert trips with European-/cold-spec TLC's, the downside is that it will take an awful long time for the engine to heat up in (typically European) colder temperatures....hence not good for a permanent upgrade, only for dedicated worst-case rally & desert. [stay tuned for possibly more details on this color-range, and possibly even some partnumbers!] Subject: RE: Visco olie & koppelingen Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:34:58 +0200 From: "mike" To: Hai Willem jan, Voor zover ben ik er uit.... Ik heb hier de 17010 en de 17070 liggen dus rood en blauw, dan is de = andere optie groen.... 16210-17010 visco kleur blauw voor koele zones [blue = cold zones] 16210-17040 wordt vervangen 16210-17010 [will be superceeded by #1/blue] 16210-17050 visco kleur groen voor gemiddelde zones [green = moderate zones] 16210-17070 visco kleur rood/oranje voor warme zones [red/orange = hot zones] Met vriendelijke groet, Mike Product support All American Imports mike@all-american.nl www.houseofcruisers.nl www.all-american.nl From: Willem-Jan Markerink To: "mike" Subject: RE: Visco olie & koppelingen Reply-to: w.j.markerink@a1.nl Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:44:46 +0200 On 14 Sep 2009 at 16:34, mike wrote: > Hai Willem jan, > > Voor zover ben ik er uit.... > Ik heb hier de 17010 en de 17070 liggen dus rood en blauw, dan is de andere optie groen.... > > 16210-17010 visco kleur blauw voor koele zones > 16210-17040 wordt vervangen 16210-17010 > 16210-17050 visco kleur groen voor gemiddelde zones > 16210-17070 visco kleur rood/oranje voor warme zones En die nummers zijn dan J8-specifiek, correct? Zit er in de 2e helft van het nummer nog systeem in, onafhankelijk van de bouwserie? En vaste/starre koppelingen, bestaan die ueberhaupt nog in latere series? Thanx! -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] Subject: RE: Visco olie & koppelingen Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 08:06:39 +0200 From: "mike" To: -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: Willem-Jan Markerink [mailto:w.j.markerink@a1.nl]=20 Verzonden: maandag 14 september 2009 17:00 Aan: mike > On 14 Sep 2009 at 16:34, mike wrote: > >> Hai Willem jan, >> >> Voor zover ben ik er uit.... >> Ik heb hier de 17010 en de 17070 liggen dus rood en blauw, dan is de >> andere optie groen.... >> >> 16210-17010 visco kleur blauw voor koele zones >> 16210-17040 wordt vervangen 16210-17010 >> 16210-17050 visco kleur groen voor gemiddelde zones >> 16210-17070 visco kleur rood/oranje voor warme zones > > En die nummers zijn dan J8-specifiek, correct? Nee 1H# specifiek zitten zelfs op 1HDFTE. > Zit er in de 2e helft van het nummer nog systeem in, onafhankelijk van > de bouwserie? Nee kan zo maar wijzigen... > En vaste/starre koppelingen, bestaan die ueberhaupt nog in latere > series? Schijnen wel te bestaan maar zijn echte snaren vreters.... To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: "danamotors" Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 06:01:39 -0000 Subject: [80] Overheating Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com Hey guys. I had to abort a run yesterday after my truck started to overheat. The truck is fine on the highway, even with the A/C on. But when I get offroad and start to climb hills at low speed, the temp rises. I'd guess the problem is the fan clutch. Would a partially-blocked radiator also cause this problem? It seems that since it's OK on the highway (and gets full airflow then) that the radiator is probably OK. However, since the radiator is old, I think I should just replace it anyway. I know that on the petrol trucks, the earlier ones had a full-metal radiator and the newer ones have the plastic tanks. Does anyone know if the same is true of the diesels? Were the earlier diesel trucks equipped with all copper radiators? I've got a plastic radiator in there now, and I'd like to switch to the all-copper unit. Car is 1991 with 1HD-T engine. thanks Dana To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: Longman Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 01:01:50 +0800 Subject: Re: [80] Overheating Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com Dana, I had similar symptoms a few years ago. I was in the Pilbara region of West Aust at the time (very hot climate) where the locals have a policy of just adding more silicone oil to the fan clutch so it is engaged all the time. That fixed it for a little while. It wasn't long before the overheating returned, but only when loading the engine. I got the radiator core rodded out and they said it was about 80% blocked. It seems the HD-T doesn't need much functioning radiator area when under normal operating conditions but slow 4wdriving or pulling a load shows up the problem. And yes, I had chemically cleaned and back-flushed the rad but obviously with little effect. The rad guy just chuckled and said "Nah mate - that never works - ya gotta shove a rod up em". BTW, the test for checking if the fan is engaged when hot is to see how difficult it is to stop the fan with a screwdriver handle or stick or similar. Should be easy when cool and difficult when hot. I have never come across a car that is so difficult to remove the radiator than a L/C 80 series. That, the handbrake, and the absent rear interior light are the three things I do not love about the design of my car. But I've had worse marriages. Dale (aka Rafiki) West Australia 92 HDJ80 A few German notes on the similar easy way to repair the viscous coolant-heat-generator on TLC J9-series: http://forum.buschtaxi.org/heizleistungsverstarker-defekt-t23461.html