To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
Send reply to:    LandCruisers@tlca.org
From:             mike@headwaters.com
Date sent:        Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:25:09 +0000
Subject:          Re: Fixing flats with split rims

Gordon Pritchard on Fixing flats with split rims:

>         I've had the opportunity to change tires on "non-split"
> rims, using manual tire-changing equipment, but I don't have the
> foggiest notion how to do this with a split rim.  Much less in
> the boonies.

  It's actually a lot easier, but there *is* certainly a danger of 
the rim slipping while you're filling the tube.  Normally you fill 
the tire while it's in a steel cage, but in the boonies you just wrap 
a chain around it and hope *real* hard that nothing untoward happens.

>         So, would you mind describing how you go about changing a
> split-rim tire (and maybe add flat-fixing info, too)?  Now that
> my FJ-45 has 5 of these split-rims, I oughtta know at least a bit
> about them...

  You know, of course, that split rims use only tubes, right?  No 
tubeless radials need apply.  Well, you can use them, but you still 
need an innertube.

The real boon of split rims is that the bead doesn't really seal, so
you don't need to *break* it like you do on tubeless.  You can 
jack up the wheel (you don't even *have* to remove the wheel, but 
it's easier if you do).  Push down on the rim, and it will push the 
bead down, and you can pull the punctured tube out without removing 
the tire from the rim, and you can push in a new tube and start 
filling (after you wrap that chain around it, of course).  The only 
tricky bit is the valve, of course.   As you fill it, watch the rim 
and make sure that it's evenly mounted, not too far to one side and 
leaving a gap at the other side (this is where bad things happen).  
When it's at low pressure (a few pounds; up to 5psi, say) then you 
can still move the rim around to get it just right, and make sure 
it's good.  If it's looking good at moderate pressure, then start 
inflating more.  The danger is the rim slipping when the tube moves 
around in the tire (due to a fold or something).  If the tube was 
nicely laid in there in the first place, you would have to be very 
very unlucky to have problems.

  This is what I do on trailers, anyway.  It will be interesting to 
see if the Aussies have a different way of dealing with it.

 /---------------------------------------------------/
  Mike Graham, TLCA #5047             Ontario, Canada
  , 
  1981 BJ42 24V Diesel Land Cruiser "The Chew Toy"
  1988.5 Suzuki Samurai JX "Super Smurf"  
  Find the ORDFAQ at 
  Diesel Technical LandCruiser list - 

To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
Send reply to:    LandCruisers@tlca.org
Date sent:        Fri, 11 Jul 1997 22:45:33 +1000
From:             jack chomley 
Subject:          Re: Fixing flats with split rims

Gordon wrote>
>
>        I've had the opportunity to change tires on "non-split"
>rims, using manual tire-changing equipment, but I don't have the
>foggiest notion how to do this with a split rim.  Much less in
>the boonies.
>
>        All I've ever read/heard about split rims is how some
>hapless shop worker gets decapitated...
>
>        So, would you mind describing how you go about changing a
>split-rim tire (and maybe add flat-fixing info, too)?  Now that
>my FJ-45 has 5 of these split-rims, I oughtta know at least a bit
>about them...

Hi Gordon,

We have had these rims here for years, they are even still a factory
fit for the latest Toyota 80 series RV model (slightly different offset)
I have 750R X 16 tyres fitted on split rims (some people use 235's)
OK, here's the good oil......
Take the rim with flat tyre and remove the valve core from the tube stem
to fully deflate the tyre, to break the tyre bead on the split rim side,
place the tyre/rim on the ground in front of your truck's front wheel
(drivers side) now carefully drive your trucks front wheel onto the edge
of the tyre so it forces it down off the split rim section, you may need
to move the rim/tyre around and repeat the process until the bead is broken,
be careful not to drive onto the split rim itself or the split section may 
get bent and cant be reseated properly after you repair the tube.
Having broken the bead, flip the wheel over and check the bead on the other
side, usually this side is not a problem unless the tyre bead is stuck to
the rim from rust etc.
Mark the split rim section with a pen/pencil etc and the main rim body, also
mark the tyre as well so that it can all be reassembled the same (helps for
wheel balance etc) See if you can locate the nail/object that caused the flat
in the first place, mark this on the tyre wall as well.
Take 2 large flat tipped screwdrivers (or small tyre levers) wedge one in the
opening of the split rim ring and lever it apart, when this happens, you will
see a small recess in the rim ring itself, insert lever/driver in and try to
lever the ring out of the main rim groove. You must do this while standing on
the tyre to hold its bead down off the rim ring, otherwise you will not get 
the rim ring separated enough to get it off the main rim itself. Be careful
to prise the ring off in stages around the rim circumference until it pops
off. Lift the tyre off the rim while carefully manipulating the valve stem
through the main rim hole. Take out rust band and tube, lay the tube on the
tyre and line up the valve stem with the markings so that you can identify
where the hole should be in the tube, mark hole when found. Also check inside
the tyre and remove nail/object. Repair the tube with a puncture repair kit
and test for leaks etc.
To reinstall, fit tube back in tyre followed by rust band, reinflate a very
small amount to "settle" tube back in tyre, deflate and carefully refit tyre
to main rim while feeding valve stem through the rim, dont forget your marks
on rim/ring/tyre when reassembling.
Now take the split rim ring and place it according to your markings, stand on
the wheel (use good solid shoes/boots...no thongs!) depress the tyre bead and
then use your heel to "start" seating the ring on the main rim, start at the
split end and "work your way around the circumference of the rim until the
ring is fully seated.
Once done, reinsert valve core and tighten..........now the safety bit!!!!
Lean the wheel assembly up against a good tree (split ring side against trunk)
Connect air hose and pump up to rated tyre pressure.....thats it!
On the safety angle, I have never seen one of these come apart, large truck
wheels have a bad reputation but they generally use a 2 ring rim setup and
much higher pressures and yes, I have seen these come apart because the outer
lock ring was incorrectly fitted.
I favour the split rims over any other wheels as they are easy to fix, tyres
are readily available over most of Australia and they perform just as well
if not better than the 10R x 15LT's on my wife's truck.
Lots of split rims available here as the "Mallmobile" pilots junk them in 
favour of fancy steel/alloy rims and mega-mudblaster tyres.........which
never go off-road anyway!
Regards,

Jack Chomley
Telelink Communications (Australia)
Home Page URL: http://www.networx.com.au/mall/tlink
E-mail: jack@networx.com.au
'78 BJ40, '83 BJ42 5sp. VK4JRC

To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
Send reply to:    LandCruisers@tlca.org
Date sent:        Fri, 11 Jul 97 12:50:12 UT
From:             "Nigel BUXTON" 
Subject:          Split rims

Mike gave a nice description on fixing a split rim.
Our experience and methods are  similar. The procedure is simple and from go 
to woa is about 12 minutes. Pippa (age 12) take 18 - 20 mins but I re-fit the 
locking ring.
My main difference with Mike is we do have to break the bead unless the tyre 
has full collapsed and has been run on for a while. 
1) Mark valve position and split position on the casing.
2) Remove valve stem.
3) Break bead - both sides with a beadbreaker (Tyre pliers are GREAT!) - TIP 
   If going bush and your tyres haven't had the beads broken for a while, do it 
at home before you leave and lubricate the bead well.
4) Remove locking ring with tyre levers.
5) Remove rim.
6) Remove dust band.
7) Remove tube, identify and mark the puncture. Put tube on Tarpaulin.
8) Find the cause of the puncture in the casing and remove. See if the casing 
   needs a patch. If a big hole may need a gaiter. (These holes would cause the 
   casing to be thrown at home but 1000 kms from anywhere, hang on, it may be 
   useful and you wouldn't litter would you??
9) Clean the tube in area of puncture and abraid the surface. Add patch cement 
   and patch. Roller on the patch well. 
10) Clean out tyre casing of dust, leaves or other junk. 
11) On the tarp, put tube in the casing, replace valve stem and slightly
    inflate. This makes adding the dust band easier. Ensure everything even. 
12) Insert rim, making sure valve faces out of the rim. Make sure valve mark on 
    casing matches valve position. 
13) Position locking ring with split opposite mark on case. 
14) Replace the locking ring with the "Split Rim Shuffle" - Kick it into 
    position. This is the only bit I will NOT let Pippa do!! 
15) When satisfied the ring is locked in place. Put wheel against a tree or other 
    obstacle and slowly reseat the bead with compressed air. 
16) If sure all is safe, inflate to operating pressures.

Have a beer!!  Have another beer!  (Thank heavens for car fridges!)

As far as possible we save tyre repairs for the evening when temperatures have
dropped. (high 40 Celsius is quite exhausting for tyre repairs.) If necessary,
rather than patch a tube at mid-day, we insert a new tube and repair the puncture at
night. This is why, in the Outback, you are considered mad if you don't carry 2 full
spare wheels.

Best wishes,
Nigel

To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
Send reply to:    LandCruisers@tlca.org
From:             "CONRAD" 
Subject:          Re: Fixing flats with split rims
Date sent:        Fri, 11 Jul 1997 09:27:32 -0800

> From: jack chomley 
> Subject: Re: Fixing flats with split rims
> Date: Friday, July 11, 1997 4:45 AM
> ... to break the tyre bead on the split rim side,
> place the tyre/rim on the ground in front of your truck's front wheel
> (drivers side) now carefully drive your trucks front wheel onto the edge
> of the tyre so it forces it down off the split rim section....

Jack,
 I have found that a hi-lift jack works quite well at breaking beads.  Put
the tire on the ground under the bumper, place the jack on the tire next to
the rim, and start pumping the handle.  You may have to turn the tire a few
times to get the bead to break all the way around.  It's simple, quick, and
no chance of driving over the rim.
jc

Jack Conrad,  BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851,conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
84 FJ-60, coils over  leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
69 FJ40, 79 FJ40, both stock
92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!

To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
Send reply to:    LandCruisers@tlca.org
From:             mike@headwaters.com
Date sent:        Sat, 12 Jul 1997 16:16:19 +0000
Subject:          Re: Fixing flats with split rims

jack chomley on Re: Fixing flats with split rims:

> (drivers side) now carefully drive your trucks front wheel onto the edge
> of the tyre so it forces it down off the split rim section, you may need
> to move the rim/tyre around and repeat the process until the bead is broken,

  I'm sure that this method works, however, I have one or two 
reservations regarding the use of said method.  Primarily I am not a 
big fan of driving my vehicle even short distances with only three 
wheels on it.  8-)    I prefer to put the base of the jack on the 
side of the tire next to the bead and use the weight of the truck to 
break the bead.  It's not as fast, but it's more controllable, and 
not as likely to cause major anguish.

> mark the tyre as well so that it can all be reassembled the same (helps for
> wheel balance etc) 

  That's a really good point.  Not an issue on our farm wagons, so I 
never thought of that.  I'll have to keep that in mind in case I ever 
need to change one on my friend Jamie's FJ45.

  As an aside, both you and Nigel mentioned having to break the beads 
on these puppies.  I've never in all my three experiences 8-) with 
changing these puppies had one bead sealed.  Maybe it's the heat of 
high speeds that seals yours?

> I favour the split rims over any other wheels as they are easy to fix, tyres
> are readily available over most of Australia and they perform just as well
> if not better than the 10R x 15LT's on my wife's truck.

  The rims themselves aren't easy to find on this side of the pond, 
unless you buy from Toyota or MAF or something.  I don't actually 
find regular rims too hard to deal with, though it's a bit more 
irritating when you're dealing with tubes (and sometimes you *have* 
to if you wrecked your sidewall).

 /---------------------------------------------------/
  Mike Graham, TLCA #5047             Ontario, Canada
  , 
  1981 BJ42 24V Diesel Land Cruiser "The Chew Toy"
  1988.5 Suzuki Samurai JX "Super Smurf"  
  Find the ORDFAQ at 
  Diesel Technical LandCruiser list - 

From:             "Peter Mills" 
To:               <80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com>
Subject:          Re: [80]BFG MT tyres
Date sent:        Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:02:16 +1000
Send reply to:    80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com

snip

>Hi All,
>Im getting sick of being left at the bottom of slippery hills, looking to
>move from 7.50x16 Dunlop Road Grippers (the Toyota supplied tyre) to a BF
>Goodrich 235/85-16 Mud Terrain (while these 12 months interest free deals
>are for the taking).
>
>I want to keep the splits (yeah yeah I know...!!) as I find them easy to
>change etc.
>
>Any of you with experience/advice with these tyres please e-mail me offlist if
>you can!!??
>
>Thanks
>Gary

Gary
toss the splits and get used to fixing tyres with one piece 8 inch rims,
mucho better for your cruiser(my humble opinion) . Apart fromn the highlift jack
(to break the bead) the only lightweight items you need to fix a flat are two
tyre levers, a rubber hammer, soap, tubes and/or patches and pump. Single piece
rims are dead easy to repair I cant understand why many people are adverse to
them. I've had both on various vehicles for many years and see no real problems
with either except the choice of tyres is a bitch with 750 16's and its
sometimes harder now to get a 750 16 matching spare out in the sticks but even
William Creek has dozens of various 265 16's etc brought up for repairs. I put
this reply on the list Gary as I think it is another good discussion point for
all the closet 750 16 lovers to add some spice. cheers Peter Mills

From:             "Norm Needham" 
To:               <80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com>
Subject:          Re: [80] Tyre tube sizes
Date sent:        Tue, 25 Apr 2000 22:50:04 +1000
Send reply to:    80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com

From: David Simpson 

> > The 750R16 will be fine. The 205R16 is tad small but might be ok for a 2nd
> > or 3rd spare IMHO.
>
> > Ian B
>
> So what you saying is the 205 "profile" is to small even though it's wider than
> a 750R16. (I think a 750 is about 190, approx)
>

David,
Either tube will be "smaller" in profile than the 2 tyre sizes
mentioned. They stretch considerably when inflated.
A good quality (heavy duty) tube is often marked to fit a few different
profiles. These premium tubes are a little thicker than others and
capable of handling the extra stretch in "bigger" profiles.

Cheers                                            *
Norm Needham                           *        *
Traction4 / ARB Northside                  *
Sydney, Australia                            *
Trac4@bigpond.com
Trac4@telstra.com

From:             "Rod &Sue Mcleod" 
To:               <80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com>
Subject:          Re: [80] Tyre tube sizes
Date sent:        Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:43:02 +1000
Send reply to:    80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com

G'DAY DAVID.
DON'T USE THE 205 TUBES AS THEY  ARE TOO SMALL , BUT KEEP THEM AS EMERGENCY
SPARES IN YOUR NEVER NEVER BOX

hoo roo rod
91 1hz pto in custom front bar false floor hiding fridge in slide
hella upgraded everything more radios than you can poke a stick at in custom
built console dual batteries Thomas compressor suspension upgrade blah blah blah
blah rmcleod@biway.com.au

Date sent:        Thu, 27 Dec 2001 17:31:57 -0800
From:             Andy Brannan 
Send reply to:    abrannan@foothill.net
Organization:     Computer Animal
To:               w.j.markerink@a1.nl
Subject:          Split Rims

Regarding the split rims page: I have had to change tires on both split
and non split rims in the field without proper tools, and I agree:
splits are definitely easier.

The thing is, we all hear splits are dangerous, but no-one has ever
heard of anyone getting hurt -- right?  Well here's a case to set the
rumors straight: my uncle was decapitated by a split rim ring.  He was a
professional mechanic, using the proper tools, and this one still got
him.  I know it's rare, but it does happen.

Please use all the precautions you can: take the tire off the vehicle,
set the tube in perfectly straight, wrap the thing in chain, lay it face
down while filling and anything else that you know of -- it's worth it.

Happy hunting!

Andy
--
Andy Brannan
abrannan@foothill.net
http://www.foothill.net/~abrannan/reference.html
http://www.foothill.net/~abrannan/resume.html

42.7% of all statistics are made up on the spot.

From: "Stan Ansell" 
To: 
Subject: split rims
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 14:38:09 +1030

Dear all,
             yes split rims can be dangerous I personally know of three
people who have been killed by them. However the split rims that I am
talking about were on heavy transport vehicles that is semi trailers. I have
changed and repaired many tyres on split rings, the best advice that I can
offer you is, before you put the locking ring back on the rim make sure the
groove in the fim and on the locking ring is clean. Give it a good work out
with a wire brush, or a rag to get and dirt mud or dust out of the locking
grooves. If you have bruised either the rim or the locking ring with a slide
hammer please clean the bruise up with a file. When you have fitted the
locking ring back onto the rim put 5 to 10 psi into the tyre and then gently
tap the outside edge of the locking ring into the locking groove of the rim
with a hammer to make sure that it has bedded properly into the locking
groove. Once that you can see that the groove on the locking ring is firmly
bedded into the groove in the rim attach the air line to the valve turn the
tyre over so that the locking ring is facing down and then proceed to pump
up the tyre to the correct inflation pressure. Once the tyre is correctly
inflated pick the tyre up with the locking ring facing away from you and
check that the locking ring is still bedded correctly. DO NOT STAND OVER THE
TYRE whilst you are pumping it up this is where peole get hurt they lean
over the tyre while it is pumping up if the locking ring becomes dislodged
it can blow off and injure you. Believe me if you get hit by one of these it
certainly takes your mind off sex for a while.
 
Hope that this helps
Kind regards
Stan Ansell
Australia

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