Date sent:        Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:06:08 -0600
To:               LandCruisers@tlca.org
From:             Todd Richardson 
Subject:          Alaska......Now that's COLD!
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org

While reading the morning paper and drinking my coffee,I came across an
interesting article.

Alaska wind chill falls to minus 100 degrees
It seems air temps have fallen to minus 70 degrees,with wind chill indices
to minus 100!
Meteorologist said,"the beads on tires are beginning to break as the rubber
becomes rigid in the cold and can chip and shatter."

Now that's cold!

Cruiser content:
Mark,how long does it take to start a Cruiser that has been sitting out in
this kind of cold?

Todd Richardson
'76 fj40 w/PTO&P/S!  TLCA#4696  STLCA  GCC
Little Rock,AR
mailto:todd@mail.snider.net






From:             "Philippe Trottier" 
To:               
Subject:          RE: Alaska......Now that's COLD!
Date sent:        Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:04:06 +0200
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org

> Alaska wind chill falls to minus 100 degrees
> It seems air temps have fallen to minus 70 degrees,with wind 
> chill indices
> to minus 100!
> Meteorologist said,"the beads on tires are beginning to break 
> as the rubber
> becomes rigid in the cold and can chip and shatter."
> 
> Now that's cold!

Last week we had -89F without wind factor (in the north of the country).. =) have
fun =)

Philippe Globe Trottier
Finland !







Date sent:        Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:34:04 -0800
From:             Mark Whatley 
To:               landcruisers@tlca.org
Subject:          Re: Alaska......Now that's COLD!
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org

Todd Richardson wrote:
> 
> While reading the morning paper and drinking my coffee,I came across an
> interesting article.
> 
> Alaska wind chill falls to minus 100 degrees
> It seems air temps have fallen to minus 70 degrees,with wind chill indices
> to minus 100!
> Meteorologist said,"the beads on tires are beginning to break as the rubber
> becomes rigid in the cold and can chip and shatter."
> 
> Now that's cold!
> 
> Cruiser content:
> Mark,how long does it take to start a Cruiser that has been sitting out in
> this kind of cold?

  When it gets that cold... you simply don't. An automotive battery puts
out zip at those temps. Gasoline doesn't vaporize for squat. Clearances
in the engine are all skewed. Gear lube is thicker than peanut butter
(more like modeling clay). 10w-40 is more along the lines of peanut
butter. Only the strongest antifreeze mixtures stay liquid. Brake fluid
gets thick. Often cylinder head valves fail to seal because of
contraction. 

  Tires can crack if impacted hard. Door handles, seats and stuff are
just waiting to snap. Fuel pump diaphragms may split when asked to flex.
CV boots shatter commonly. Jeep axles and driveshafts split  :)

  In that kinda of cold you leave the rig running before the temps drop
that far, and don't shut it off. Or you use "aircraft heaters" (powerful
fan driven heaters which blast the heated air out of a long duct) to try
and warm the engine/drivetrain to reasonable levels before starting.

  In the more reasonable 20-30 below range that we're seeing here where
I'm at, most of this isn't a problem. However batteries are right at the
edge of the envelope. Only a good one will turn an engine over, and
still not for long. It takes full choke and A LOT of peddal pumnping to
get enough fuel into the intake of a carburated engine to provide
sufficient vaporized gasoline for ignition. Frost forms on the cylinder
walls from the moisture in the air inside the engine as it is shut off.
Well tuned rigs with (especially with loose engines and powerful
batteries) will start, but it is still a question every time. (The 3
cylinder diesel in the tractor just laughs at me once it drops below
zero at all.)

  This is why all the different kinds of heaters I mentioned yesterday
are out there. Unless you don't have electricity (not unheard of out in
the real bush, and even on the fringes) any rig you plan to drive either
stays plugged, or gets plugged in anywhere from a couple to several
hours before you expect to need it.

 This kind of weather really destroys any motivation to work on rigs
that have to be brought inside first. heck, it is a job just keeping the
shop warm when it hits 30 below. You don't even want to get out of bed
when it gets down to the -45 and colder ranges.


Mark...
-- 
Mark Whatley, ASE. "Function over Form." Iron Pigs Forever.
Owner, Cruisers Only, Palmer Alaska Mailto:cruiser@mtaonline.net
Chrome and leather don't get you down the trail. Don't even say "SUV"
http://www.tlca.org Tech Ed Toyota Trails Mailto:techexchange@tlca.org
82 FJ60, 78 FJ55 78 FJ40, 66 FJ40, 63 FJ45. Lotsa parts rigs.





Date sent:        Sat, 30 Jan 1999 13:07:42 -0400
To:               landcruisers@tlca.org
From:             Rod LaHaise 
Subject:          Re: Alaska......Now that's COLD!
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org

At 10:06 AM 1/30/99 Todd Richardson wrote:

>Alaska wind chill falls to minus 100 degrees

>Mark,how long does it take to start a Cruiser that has been sitting out in
>this kind of cold?

I was on a winter exercise in the Northwest Territory in January and the
temperature was below -50 for the entire time (two weeks of sleeping in
tents) with wind chill factors that often dropped below -95. We arrived by
Hurcules transport plane and we had a single 1 1/4 ton Chevy truck as
a support vehicle and we were forced to keep it running non-stop. It had a
webaso coolant heater to keep the block warm but the auto transmission and
engine oil were both rock solid after being shut down for more than 3 hours.

Rod


      ---------------------------------------------------------
 Rod LaHaise, New Brunswick, Canada. TLCA# 1682. www.off-road.com/~beck
    86 HJ-60, Project rig, OME, Bullbar, Snorkel, Custom Roof Rack.
            86 HJ-60, stock 30 mpg Shelley's daily driver      






From:             "nbuxton" 
To:               
Subject:          RE: Alaska......Now that's COLD!
Date sent:        Sun, 31 Jan 1999 07:40:45 +0800
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org


>
> > Alaska wind chill falls to minus 100 degrees
> > It seems air temps have fallen to minus 70 degrees, with wind
> > chill indices
> > to minus 100!
> > Now that's cold!
>
> Last week we had -89F without wind factor (in the north of the
> country).. =) have fun =)
>
> Philippe Globe Trottier
> Finland !

Various masochists discussed their temps! I needed thermolactals just
reading it. We are having 35 - 45 C temps (95 - 113F), much more pleasant!
Best wishes,
Nigel.  mailto:nbuxton@wantree.com.au
Perth Western Australia TLCA# 6649
mens sana in corpore sano
(a sound mind in a sound body)





Date sent:        Fri, 05 Feb 1999 02:07:45 -0800
From:             Mark Whatley 
To:               landcruisers@tlca.org
Subject:          Cold gearlube, Was-Synthetic oil
Send reply to:    landcruisers@tlca.org

Dick Gibson wrote:
> 
> Following suggestions from the list, I recently converted all the oily
> fluids in my 78 FJ40 to synthetic oil.  This includes the engine,
> transmission, transfer case, both differentials, the brake and clutch
> masters.  I found an immediate change and improvement.  It is rather cold
> here.  The transmission shifts smoothly even below "0".  Everything works
> better. 

  It was -45F here this morning. I used my wife's '60 to take the girls
to school. Even after I churned up the lube in the tranny, the lube in
the diffs (straight 90 weight) was so thick that it was like pulling
another rig with the brakes on, just to get it to move out of the
driveway. Mulitiple clutch slipping attempts, and a couple of engine
stalls. As I hit the street, the front end was actually sliding on the
packed snow, instead of rolling (Obviously I had it in 2wd).

 Synthetic in EVERYTHING next winter if not sooner.

Mark...
-- 
Mark Whatley, ASE. "Function over Form." Iron Pigs Forever.
Owner, Cruisers Only, Palmer Alaska Mailto:cruiser@mtaonline.net
Chrome and leather don't get you down the trail. Don't even say "SUV"
http://www.tlca.org Tech Ed Toyota Trails Mailto:techexchange@tlca.org
82 FJ60, 78 FJ55 78 FJ40, 66 FJ40, 63 FJ45. Lotsa parts rigs.






Date sent:        Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:33:23 -0500
From:             Christophe Cuvillier 
To:               "dtlc@helios.net" 
Subject:          [DTLC] It's Land Cruiser Time!
Send reply to:    dtlc@helios.net

Hi folks,

We just received our biggest snowfall of the year (officially it's 12",
but where I live, in the Laurentian Snow Belt it's knee deep, which for
me is about 18"-22")

Boy was I proud of the Marathon Runner this morning! Thick, wet snow
packed up to the top of the hood by the snowplow in front of my
entrance, snow blocking the doors from opening, you had to see this. So
my neighbor, who had been shoveling for the last 45 minutes to get his
buried Civic out, exhausted, finally hires a local contractor who comes
with is bucket loader to remove at least 30 inches of heavy, packed snow
piled by the snowplow off his parking entrance.

"-Good time to test the tires..." I tell him, and get my camera out.
"Would you please take a picture for my European friends?" so he says,
chuckling:

"-You mean a picture of you frantically shoveling under the truck to get
it unstuck?"

So he stands there with the camera and I tell him: "Get ready! I'm
coming out!"

And OUT I came! The guy, flabbergasted, just stood frozen and didn't
even have the reflex to depress the shutter!!! [yeah, yeah, another big
fish story they'll say, but I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking
about!]

"-But... I thought you'd have to go at it a few times to get out..." 

"It's a Land Cruiser, man! (well, I guess I should have warned him that
I had the unfair advantage of also having studded Hakkapeliittas for a
grip...)

Needless to say, I was happy like pig in shit... :^))

On the way to my ex-wife's place to drive the kids back, it was driving
like through water, with high snow wakes on each side of the truck...
And it felt like water, floating and swaying... Boy did that engine work
on that short trip, pushing us through...

Viva los Land Cruisers!

-- 
Christophe Cuvillier
Morin Heights, Quebec, Canada
'83BJ60 "Marathon Runner", over 400,000 km









From: w.j.markerink@a1.nl
To: dtlc@helios.net
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:59:54 +0100
Subject: Re: [DTLC] [dtlc] DTLC digest V1 #741power steering whine
Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net

On 27 Jan 2003 at 16:23, Steve & Jackie Morris wrote:

> In weather below about -20C the power steering will whine. This noise
> is caused by the oil being to thick to fully circulate and it will
> lift the pressure relief valve internal to the pump. The noise you
> hear is the oil bypassing in the pump. Usually after a minute or so
> this will subside but may return if you turn steering wheel . My
> opinion is that in weather this cold, engine should run at fast
> idle1100-1200rpm for at least 5min preferably ten before gently
> heading down the road. Steve Morris

Also nice: shift T-case to Neutral, engage gearbox (highest gear 
possible), to unfreeze the oil in both boxes....;))
(seems the only way to get going in much colder area's) 


--                 
Bye,

Willem-Jan Markerink

      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand


[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]









Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 02:12:07 -0500
From: 83bj60@consultech.cx
Reply-To: dtlc@helios.net
To: dtlc@helios.net
Subject: Re: [DTLC] [dtlc] DTLC digest V1 #741power steering whine

Hello,

On Monday, January 27, 2003 at 4:59:54 PM, w.j.markerink@a1.nl wrote this about [DTLC] [dtlc] DTLC digest V1 #741power steering whine:


> On 27 Jan 2003 at 16:23, Steve & Jackie Morris wrote:

>> In weather below about -20C the power steering will whine. This noise
>> is caused by the oil being to thick to fully circulate and it will
>> lift the pressure relief valve internal to the pump. The noise you
>> hear is the oil bypassing in the pump. Usually after a minute or so
>> this will subside but may return if you turn steering wheel . My
>> opinion is that in weather this cold, engine should run at fast
>> idle1100-1200rpm for at least 5min preferably ten before gently
>> heading down the road. Steve Morris

> Also nice: shift T-case to Neutral, engage gearbox (highest gear 
> possible), to unfreeze the oil in both boxes....;))
> (seems the only way to get going in much colder area's)

Hey, how did you get to learn this Cannuck Trick? Ever been around here
during the Deep of Winter by any chance? :D

Actually you forgot to mention something REALLY important: put the
T-Case in neutral and the gear in first BEFORE shutting down
the engine for the night if you expect a REALLY cold night (-35 and
below) otherwise you may not be able to do it in the morning!!!

-- 

Best regards,
 Christophe Cuvillier
 83bj60 "Ultra Marathon Runner", 500,000 km and going...













To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com
From: "mikechuhn" 
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 06:10:16 -0000
Subject: [80] multiple cold weather related problems
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

Wow, negative 40(F) in the Dakotas last week.  Can't wait to see my 
home heating bills ...

Some problems I had with the cold weather (recently moved from CO 
and the truck NEVER was subjected to that kind of weather):

Battery - replaced with a 800CCA - 1000amp battery

Heater - this is a bit of a problem whether the temp is 32 degrees 
or negative 32degrees.  Basically, the heater seems to be A LOT 
hotter in the driver footwell than what comes out of the defrost or 
upper vents.  This is a nuissance when running the blowers in "feet 
and face" mode.  Anyone else witness this?  Any fixt or is it a 
known airflow issue?

Coolant - coolant slushed.  Not sure if the CO shop didn't mix it 
down to 40 below or what :)  Flushed and re-filled with ToyRed.

Accelerator/Throttle - frozen!  Couldn't push the pedal down.  This 
happened two days in a row.  I had to manually actuate the throttle 
lever under the hood.  It was a tough push but it broke free with 
some pressure.  What the heck is causing this?  I sprayed out the 
intake gunk this fall.  Any ideas?

Transmission shift points - shifts at a higher RPM until driven for 
at least 5 miles.  Sometimes doesn't shift into overdrive when 
travelling 50+ miles per hour, until 'warmed up'.  

Transmission kickdown - travelling at about 35-40mph and I press the 
accelerator to the floor, the transmission won't kickdown (drop) 
into 2nd like it used to.  It isn't even doing this when the vehicle 
is warmed up.  I am wondering if I damaged/bent something out of 
whack when I had to manually actuate the throttle lever?  The reason 
I suspect this is that the engine WILL kickdown a gear at the same 
speeds and I use the cruise control to accelrate.  That really made 
me think I screwed something up.  Any suggestions????

Thanks!
-Mike Huhn
'96 FJ80, 83k

PS - holy shiznit is it cold!











To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Randy Farnsworth" 
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 08:57:47 -0700
Subject: Re: [80] multiple cold weather related problems
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

Aren't you supposed to leave the vehicle running 24 hours/day when it's
that cold?

As for the throttle and kickdown cable, once it's warmed a bit, try
dripping some of that liquid graphite that you buy at locksmiths into
the cable housing (from the top end) and see if that loosens it and
keeps it loose.

Randy F.
'94 US FZJ80
Northern Utah, near the lake, where we seldom see any temps less than 0
F.












To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com
From: John Yang 
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 08:33:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [80] multiple cold weather related problems
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

> Transmission shift points - shifts at a higher RPM
> until driven for 
> at least 5 miles.  Sometimes doesn't shift into
> overdrive when 
> travelling 50+ miles per hour, until 'warmed up'.  

The transmission has a different shift pattern,
including overdrive lockout, until it reaches
operating temperature, which is not at the same time
as the engine coolant temp.

John

















To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com
From: "r_j_d_one" 
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 23:45:58 -0000
Subject: Re: [80] multiple cold weather related problems
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

--- In 80scool@yahoogroups.com, John Yang  wrote:
> > Transmission shift points - shifts at a higher RPM
> > until driven for 
> > at least 5 miles.  Sometimes doesn't shift into
> > overdrive when 
> > travelling 50+ miles per hour, until 'warmed up'.  
> 
> The transmission has a different shift pattern,
> including overdrive lockout, until it reaches
> operating temperature, which is not at the same time
> as the engine coolant temp.
> 
> John

I think how Toyota set up the external transmission cooler 
complicates extreme cold weather operation.  The trans fluid flows 
through the radiator first (which in cold weather will warm the 
fluid) and then flows through the external cooler, which in cold 
weather, can overcool the transmission.  In very cold weather it 
would probably be better to route the fluid through the external 
cooler first and then through the radiator.

If my transmission was running cold enough that it took a very long 
time to warm up I would probably cover up the external cooler with 
some cardboard.  This is a scenario where accurate coolant and 
transmission temp gauages would come in handy.

Rich

















To: "Toyota Landcruiser Club" <80scool@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Clive Marks" 
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 13:50:18 -0000
Subject: [80] Speed restriction
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

Hi,

	I have just bought an imported (to the UK)HDJ81, aqs shipped from Japan
this vehicle has a speed restriction on Cruise of 70 MPH. and on top of
112MPH. While the top speed is no problem, the cruise limit is. Does anyone
know how it can be taken off? Thanks.

	I am going to Russia in this vehicle in a few weeks, it can be -30 there.
If any tips about the cold spring to mind please pass them on.

	Regards,		Clive Marks.











To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com>
From: "toy80" 
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 00:27:24 +0100
Subject: [80] Preparation for Russia was speed restriction
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

SNIP

> 	I am going to Russia in this vehicle in a few weeks, it can be -30 there.
> If any tips about the cold spring to mind please pass them on.
>
>	Regards,		Clive Marks.

Clive,

You silly boy !!

I have spent years in Russia, the coldest being in the wonderful city of 
Voronezh SE of Moscow half way to Chechnya. It got to minus 38C in 
December.  As part of my job I bought 2 Volga saloons , a 5 door L**a N**a 
4WD and a VW transporter Kombi.

So, drain/flush your hydraulic systems to make sure there is no water 
anywhere in them. Refresh your anti-freeze so it will take -50C temps.  Put 
in a gasoline engine, alternatively if diesel, make sure the glow plugs are 
new, battery is very good, have a spare battery plus heavy duty jump leads 
(300 amp welding cable will be best). Enable your cigarette lighter socket 
to charge the spare battery with a fly lead when you get the engine going. 
Take a 220v battery charger to charge your battery at home (hotel). And 
take the spare battery into your room at night to keep it warm. Renew all 
fuel filters and take plenty of spares, and when cold, if your engine is a 
basic diesel with no high tech control circuits etc., then add 10% gasoline 
when you fill-up, as all Russian diesel owners do. Put a disposable in-line 
filter into the pipe leading to the injector pump after the standard 
filter, plus have spares. Have a large thermos flask to take boiling water 
to the car in the morning, pouring the water onto the ally inlet manifold 
(works wonders), and take plenty of spare very high quality drive belts. If 
you are in prolonged low temperatures you will find the belts will crack 
and split very quickly (2 weeks). Also applies to tyres, if in doubt put on 
new ones, and take tyre chains with QD cable fixing. Don't bother with low 
temperature screen wash - buy cheap homemade vodka from grannies at the 
roadside and use it neat - its about 47% alcohol. Take a can of ether 
starting spray but only use when all else fails. Take a snow shovel, 
warning triangle, first aid kit and fire extinguisher (last 3 mandatory 
under Russian road laws). All this in addition to the usual cold weather 
stuff you would take anyway. If a manual tranny, make sure you put your 
foot on the clutch when starting and keep it there until the engine is 
running smoothly then let it out slowly with revs on the engine. The oil 
drag on the gearbox internals even at neutral/idle can stall the engine in 
cold weather.  Try and park under cover, or at least not so your tyres can 
get frozen overnight in loose slush or mud, and always park in a secure 
area - usually a fenced floodlit compound with guard and large dog - yes 
seriously.

There's probably more but I need to refresh my memory !  Living where I do 
now I apply most of these rules still, but its never -38C here thankfully. 
Otherwise enjoy the experience, but don't stop to eat at the roadside, go 
to 'proper' hotels or State owned restaurants.  I can go on................

Cheers

Jon

'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia - can be mailed off-list for any other 
info you might require.











To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Peter Persad" 
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 15:30:48 -0800
Subject: Re: [80] Preparation for Russia was speed restriction
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

I live in Britsh Columbia and have for all my life
Last month it was -35C, so here's what I do

  a.. sheet of cardboard in front of rad, engine gets warmer faster, takes longer to cool down in cold
  b.. check engine coolant in rad - too much water in coolant=frozen rad
  c.. block heater 
  d.. -40C windshield wiper fluid
best of luck
emergency supplies in case of breakdown












To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com>
From: "toy80" 
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 07:24:34 +0100
Subject: [80] Preparation for Russia was speed restriction
Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com

One other thing Clive, sorry I forgot.

Take spare wiper blades with you. The Russians have a penchant for removing 
wipers on parked cars - even in daylight. But remove your blades whenever 
parked, even in a secure car park at night.  You will see a lot of cars run 
round with a purpose-made small wheel attached to the bare wiper arms. This 
for when the owner forgets to put the blades back on and flicks the wiper 
sans blade without thinking. Its worth getting some of these little wheels, 
they saved my screens a lot of damage over the years.

Cheers

Jon

'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia










Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 08:42:51 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON 
Subject: Re: [ihc] Anybody we know?
To: ihc-digest@digest.net

Ryan,

When I worked on the trans-Alaska Pipeline project
back in the 70s there was a "duty" Caterpillar in each
pipeline camp during the winter.  This Cat was always
kept running day and night and it was there for fire
protection.  The camps were laid out in H-shaped rows
of dormatory trailers (or manufactured housing, to be
politically correct).  If any one of the dorms caught
fire, the Cat would push the burning structure away
from the others.  There was no hope of pumping water
at those temperatures.

We had a tank type cooling system heater on our Jimmy
at home in Fairbanks.  The truck stayed plugged in
whenever it was parked during the winter day and
night.  Of course, you have seen the outlets in public
private parking areas.

I used to fly my father-in-laws J3 Cub when the
temperatures were above zero, but still cold.  I would
cover the cowling and engine with a blanket and place
a catalytic heater (campsite heater) underneath the
front of the plane and leave it to warm the engine and
oil.  In an hour or two the plane would start fine,
but flying it at those temps overpowered the cabin
heat system, so you had to dress warm.  Smooth dense
are was nice though.

Joe Fulton













Cc: JOE FULTON , ihc-digest@digest.net
From: John Hofstetter 
Subject: Re: [ihc] Anybody we know?
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 14:23:09 -0800
To: Ken Farmer 
Reply-To: John Hofstetter 

Some engines need heating on the opposite end. I've become quite  
fascinated with hot-head diesel engines where you have to build a  
fire on top of the head to get it hot enough to fire the fuel.  
Actually, there are a variety of these designs ranging from lighting  
charcoal on top to the head to heating a copper conductor with a blow  
torch.

As the years went by, the designs became more dignified, but still  
did the same job.

At Tulare, they had a huge single cylinder Fairbanks Morse hot head  
that pumped continuously for something like 70 years on the  
California Delta, and it still can run well today.  OK, so how did I  
segue-way from the going topic into that engine at Tulare?  Just did.

First time I got hooked on hot head diesels was at the top of Jail  
Canyon in Death Valley. There is pretty much a complete mill up there  
still intact, and among the pieces of equipment is the hot head  
diesel that supplied the power for it. The place and the equipment  
were preserved by a combination of 3 things. Years of having a  
caretaker living up there, a lack of knowledge about its existence,  
and finally a flash flood that pretty much made getting the equipment  
out an impossibility.

Hmm, I just looked at my web site to see if I had photos of Jail  
Canyon there, but I don't. I suggest it as one of the really good  
trips, but didn't post any photos. Quite a number of the digesters  
have been up there with me, and the rest of you need to go.

John

















Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 03:25:40 +0100
From: Willem-Jan Markerink 
Subject: [Offroadlist] Re: Cold weather starting advice.
To: pinzgauer@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com, offroadlist@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: offroadlist@googlegroups.com

[originally Pinzgauer list, CC to Volvo & ORM list]

On 7 Feb 2007 at 4:20, mtkessel wrote:

> Does the Pinz choke work by adding fuel to enrich the mixture rather than restrict air flow?
> 
> My limited understanding was that a choke usually restricted air flow to enrich the mixture 
> and create more vacuum so the fuel vaporized better under colder conditions.
> 
> If so than I would think that a lower octane rating would help a little (albeit a gross 
> generalization that the vapor pressure would increase with lower octane rating).

Interesting theory, wonder whether this improve things indeed....
Would require quite a complicated fuel-delivery/-split system, but 
still....once you enter arctic temperatures, all tricks are welcome.
 
> As usual, amazed and confused...
> 
> mk
> 1972 710M since 1999

--                 
Bye,

Willem-Jan Markerink

      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand


[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]









Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 20:00:21 -0800
From: David Taylor 
To: offroadlist@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Offroadlist] Re: Cold weather starting advice.
Reply-To: offroadlist@googlegroups.com

Willem-Jan Markerink wrote:
> [originally Pinzgauer list, CC to Volvo & ORM list]
>
> On 7 Feb 2007 at 4:20, mtkessel wrote:
>   
>> Does the Pinz choke work by adding fuel to enrich the mixture rather than restrict air flow?
>>
>> My limited understanding was that a choke usually restricted air flow to enrich the mixture 
>> and create more vacuum so the fuel vaporized better under colder conditions.
>>
>> If so than I would think that a lower octane rating would help a little (albeit a gross 
>> generalization that the vapor pressure would increase with lower octane rating).
>>     
>
> Interesting theory, wonder whether this improve things indeed....
> Would require quite a complicated fuel-delivery/-split system, but 
> still....once you enter arctic temperatures, all tricks are welcome.


I've found that I can almost always drop down an octane rating every few 
degrees.
My car requires premium above 65F, at 40 Plus is fine and in the sub 
freezing
range the lower the better.

Maximum power is just below the ping zone,

The lower octane you can run the more power, Premium has the
same number of BTU's that 88 octane has. But it burns slower.

Dave















From: "alstick" 
To: "Offroadlist" 
Subject: [Offroadlist] Re: Cold weather starting. Block heater?
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:56:25 -0800
Reply-To: offroadlist@googlegroups.com

Just came back from -20C in Calgary Alberta. I have a Chevy Duramax
and it started just fine just a bit louder than normal.

Up in that country all the hotels have plug in's at each parking
stall. no need at -20 - but anything colder and I would plug in. Pull
into a shop parking lot and all the trucks are left running and you
just carry two sets of keys. Good thing the largest oil reserves
outside Saudi are in Alberta... keeps the fuel at the pump cheep. My
buddy has a ford powerstroke and it started pretty good two but both
of us have the dual battery options as well.
A buddy who worked on the rigs with his pumper truck had diff heaters
to make sure the ring and pinions didn't lock up and ran tranny fluid
in the transmision in the winter as gear oil gets to thick and it was
hard to shift.
Al V










To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com
From: Willem-Jan Markerink 
Date: Sat, 19 May 2007 21:39:57 +0200
Subject: [Volvo303] Octane lowering
Reply-To: Volvo303@yahoogroups.com

While searching for info about the Beijing-Paris MotorChallenge, I 
stumbled upon this site/article, finally confirming the remark of two 
guys at the Motormuseum in Riga/Letvia, that they added petroleum to 
the gasoline, to obtain 72 octane (which they could no longer buy in 
Letvia), otherwise their old Russian gazguzzling (multifuel?) 
oldtimers wouldn't start....:))

http://www.citroentuning.de/testimonials.html

1/2 gasoline, 1/2 kerosene, resulting in 70 octane....


PS: anyone know the octane limits of a modern bush-going gasoline 
like Land Cruiser?
At least the 1FZ-FE generation would match the rpm-requirements for 
our Volvo....and being electronic, it would/should automatically 
adjust for lower octane.

Btw, here anecdotical evidence that pre-WWII gasoline offered even 
only 40 octane....:))

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline

Now I only need to know the mathematics/linearity of adding kerosene 
to gasoline....
(like 3/4 gasoline + 1/4 kerosene would make (3x95)+(1x55)/4 = 85?)

(sample above was (X+95)/2 = 70 octane, means X = 55 = octane rating 
of kerosene)
(if they used 87 octane gasoline, then X would become 63, and the 
other calculation results in 81 octane instead of 85)



--                 
Bye,

Willem-Jan Markerink

      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand


[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]

If you have any question, remark, comment, want to share some philosophy or just want to express your opinion about these pages, feel free to send email to: w.j.markerink @ a1.nl