From: "Eric Blankenship" To: "LCML" Subject: [LCML] What body filler to use? Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:57:17 -0700 I'm getting close to being done with some significant body panel replacement work and need recommendations for a body filler. I'm not looking for show-quality paint here, but after the amount of work I've put into this project, I'd like it to look decent. Basically, I just need to smooth out the lines around the patch panels I welded in. Everything is solid, but it's nearly impossible to lay a bead all the way around the seams on 40 year old steel. Specifically, I have replaced the rear channel, parts of the rear fenders, the driver's floor, and the front of both wheel wells. The interior will be getting the bedliner treatment as soon as the holes are filled, so perfection isn't the issue. I know Bondo has a bad reputation for absorbing water. I know it would be really easy to do with Bondo, and the itch to drive it again has me tempted, but I'm trying to exorcise the rust demon so I'm torn. I'm thinking of using a two-part epoxy putty similar to JBWeld. It seems to set up pretty hard and is not too hard to work with (flap wheel instead of a sanding block). Suggestions? I don't think I've ever seen this subject come up. I've heard not to use bondo many times, but never suggestions on what to use instead. Eric Blankenship fj40l@earthlink.net Subject: Re: [LCML] What body filler to use? From: Maxwell Balmain To: Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 09:50:40 -0700 on 7/26/03 6:57 AM, Eric Blankenship at fj40l@earthlink.net wrote: > I'm getting close to being done with some significant body panel > replacement work and need recommendations for a body filler. I'm not > looking for show-quality paint here, but after the amount of work I've > put into this project, I'd like it to look decent. > > Basically, I just need to smooth out the lines around the patch panels I > welded in. Everything is solid, but it's nearly impossible to lay a > bead all the way around the seams on 40 year old steel. Specifically, I > have replaced the rear channel, parts of the rear fenders, the driver's > floor, and the front of both wheel wells. The interior will be getting > the bedliner treatment as soon as the holes are filled, so perfection > isn't the issue. > > I know Bondo has a bad reputation for absorbing water. I know it would > be really easy to do with Bondo, and the itch to drive it again has me > tempted, but I'm trying to exorcise the rust demon so I'm torn. I'm > thinking of using a two-part epoxy putty similar to JBWeld. It seems to > set up pretty hard and is not too hard to work with (flap wheel instead > of a sanding block). > > Suggestions? I don't think I've ever seen this subject come up. I've > heard not to use bondo many times, but never suggestions on what to use > instead. > > Eric Blankenship > fj40l@earthlink.net I would try Duraglass. You can get it at quality auto paint stores. It's great stuff and dries really hard. Do not use Bondo. Duraglass is a resin. Try a small area first. This stuff dries quickly and you want learn how to start sanding it down with course paper before it is fully dry. I would drill TINY holes in the area that you will apply this stuff. This way you can push it through to the other side. This will make it stronger. Keep sanding with finer and finer paper. Use a really good primer. If you go the rattle can route get the primer from a quality auto paint store(not Schmucks) HTH Maxwell Balmain 1976 FJ55 & 1978 FJ40 From: Herb Peyerl To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: Re: [LCML] What body filler to use? Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 12:09:07 -0600 On Sat, Jul 26, 2003 at 06:57:17AM -0700, Eric Blankenship wrote: > I know Bondo has a bad reputation for absorbing water. I know it would > be really easy to do with Bondo, and the itch to drive it again has me > tempted, but I'm trying to exorcise the rust demon so I'm torn. I'm > thinking of using a two-part epoxy putty similar to JBWeld. It seems to > set up pretty hard and is not too hard to work with (flap wheel instead > of a sanding block). My dad used this stuff called "All Metal" which is basically a two-part epoxy with aluminum filings in it. It comes in a dual-tube package and you but a two-barrel caulking type gun and these little disposable mixer nozzles... It looked super simple to deal with, went on very smooth and sanded well... If I was doing my body work again, I'd be using that stuff. I _think_ the product name was "All Metal" but I'm not positive so hopefully the description would be enough to find it, if it appealed to you. From: "Willem-Jan Markerink" To: landcruisers@birfield.com Subject: Re: [LCML] What body filler to use? Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 02:45:06 +0200 On 26 Jul 2003 at 6:57, Eric Blankenship wrote: > I'm getting close to being done with some significant body panel > replacement work and need recommendations for a body filler. I'm not > looking for show-quality paint here, but after the amount of work I've > put into this project, I'd like it to look decent. > > Basically, I just need to smooth out the lines around the patch panels > I welded in. Everything is solid, but it's nearly impossible to lay a > bead all the way around the seams on 40 year old steel. Specifically, > I have replaced the rear channel, parts of the rear fenders, the > driver's floor, and the front of both wheel wells. The interior will > be getting the bedliner treatment as soon as the holes are filled, so > perfection isn't the issue. > > I know Bondo has a bad reputation for absorbing water. I know it > would be really easy to do with Bondo, and the itch to drive it again > has me tempted, but I'm trying to exorcise the rust demon so I'm torn. > I'm thinking of using a two-part epoxy putty similar to JBWeld. It > seems to set up pretty hard and is not too hard to work with (flap > wheel instead of a sanding block). > > Suggestions? I don't think I've ever seen this subject come up. I've > heard not to use bondo many times, but never suggestions on what to > use instead. POR15 exists in a thick version too, metal-based, non-water- absorbing. -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] From: "Andrew Farmer" To: References: <000001c3537d$d45edcf0$89dd4b43@Karen> <002f01c35347$6dbb9820$60171e43@oemcomputer> Subject: Re: [LCML] What body filler to use? Reply-To: landcruisers@birfield.com Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:26:09 +1200 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jones" <40guy@prodigy.net> To: Sent: 26 July 2003 7:27 PM Subject: Re: [LCML] What body filler to use? > LCML Homepage: http://www.birfield.com/mailman/listinfo/landcruisers > > Personally, I don't think Bondo is any more susceptible to "holding water" > than any other lightweight body filler. Body filler by its nature is > porous, otherwise the paint and primer wouldn't adhere. I've used most > brands available, probably 20 or 30 different ones over the years with very > little difference. Some pin hole a little worse (specifically, Bondo > brand), some sand a little easier. Visit your local automotive paint > dealer, and don't spend over $15 per gallon, or you're getting the old one > two shuffle. In auto body, as in many other businesses, there's always > something newer, better, more exotic, and definitely, more expensive. My > painter is a slut for packaging and damn near broke me using the latest and > greatest crud over the last 8 or 10 trucks I've painted. At my insistance, > the last one was done the "old school" way, using the products I'd used for > 15 years or more. Identical result. > Tim Jones > Odessa Tx Lead is wonderful stuff, doesn't absorb water or corode. They used it for years!! :) Hard to apply, and heavy! Go to a marine shop and ask about the "West System" of fillers. They use a polyester resin, and plastic balls (VERY small). You can alter the ration of resin to balls to suit, for either light and easy to sand, to hard, heavy(er) and harder to sand. Totally waterproof, will take paint etc. Use it on boats a lot, doesn't fall out, etc etc If you want it really solid, you can use epoxy resin (and can still sand it) HTH Andrew Farmer FJ40 Wellington, New Zealand