From: NShamloo@aol.com Date sent: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 04:01:01 EDT Subject: [80] Re: A Virgin To: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com Send reply to: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com Hi folks: For years, I drove an M3, but deep inside I wanted to go off-road where my M3 would only dream of going....I wanted to go diving without the worry of room for tanks and whether I could pull my zodiac behind me....I always worried whether it would snow on the way back from any long distance trip.......I decided to keep the M3 and enjoy the 145mph plus pleasures that only an M3 would give.....I researched all the available SUV's on the market.....then I realize that everytime....UN vehicles are shown on TV...they are most often Landcruisers.....not land rovers....then I recall my father 's 1974 land rover....it spent more time in the shop...then on the road....i finally decided...a land cruiser was the answer.....a month ago...I bought a 93 land cruiser....now, i spend much time on the internet learning more about this beautiful machine....yes, a virgin...but, every day I find out more why I was right in deciding on a LC...the LC has 45000 miles...I had it tuned up....put some meaty tyres...front rinoguard...PIAA...con-ferr rack... Now, the first time i took it off road was on my way to Elk Lake, Oregon....I found the OEM shocks...well, great for asphalt...any suggestions about some off-road shocks.... Also, I changed all the fluids, front, rear axle...transmission and engine oil...raditors...new breaks, rear and front.... Are some things I need to watch out for...any suggestions would be much appreciated....david From: "Darren McRae" To: <80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com> Subject: RE: [80] Re: A Virgin Date sent: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 22:03:39 +1000 Send reply to: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com > I decided to keep the M3 and enjoy the 145mph plus pleasures that only an M3 > would give.....David [] David, don't think 150mph is not achievable in an 80 series. Darren McRae. (had a 155mph 80) Date sent: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 22:39:06 +1000 To: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com From: Jack Chomley Subject: RE: [80] Re: A Virgin [chat] Send reply to: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com At 10:03 PM 8/16/2000 +1000, you wrote: >I decided to keep the M3 and enjoy the 145mph plus pleasures that only an M3 >would give.....David > >[] David, don't think 150mph is not achievable in an 80 series. > Darren McRae. (had a 155mph 80) > Darren, How deep was this vertical mineshaft that you drove down, to achieve 155mph??......:-) Jack Chomley Australia From: "Darren McRae" To: <80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com> Subject: RE: [80] Re: A Virgin [chat] Date sent: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 06:44:41 +1000 Send reply to: 80_series@sgiblab.sgi.com -----Original Message----- > From: Jack Chomley > Subject: RE: [80] Re: A Virgin [chat] > > Darren, > > How deep was this vertical mineshaft that you drove down, > to achieve 155mph??......:-) > > Jack Chomley > Australia There is some great footage of the car when Craig Martin had it, being shot From a helicoptor, the helichopper could only do 225kph, and the 80 is pulling away as it accelerates across the last stage of the 96 safari, which was an old gravel road between paddocks 17 or 18km long. Darren McRae. Drysdale Vic (Aus) 0417 88 25 88 03 52 48 1550 (W) darren@ipioffice.com (H) darren@the-shed.net FROM: "Owen Hammond" SUBJECT: Re: Driving/Spot Lights DATE: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 06:51:01 GMT ORGANIZATION: BigPond Internet Services (http://www.bigpond.net.au) NEWSGROUPS: aus.cars.offroad "Mike" wrote in message news:3b1c4d56@newsserver1.picknowl.com.au... > One of the guys runs the real big ones on what was the most radical 80 > series you would ever see. > > They worked HARD and that truck drove in some "nasty" places. > So he's pretty serious and this is nothing compared to the 80 series he had! > > Cheers > Mike hehe but it is as feral as this thing http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0950/page1.html FROM: w.j.markerink@a1.nl (Willem-Jan Markerink) SUBJECT: Re: Driving/Spot Lights DATE: Tue, 05 Jun 01 11:51:14 GMT NEWSGROUPS: aus.cars.offroad In article , "Owen Hammond" wrote: >hehe but it is as feral as this thing > >http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0950/page1.html An Aussie member on the 80-series list once outran a chopper in a rally....I believe the chopper pilot is still pissed....:)) 250 real km/h, clocked with a GPS....:)) Only a single turbo 4.5L gasoline I believe, and he tuned it down later, to keep the rest of the drive train alive....;)) Ah, here a few notes I archived: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/80speed.htm (if anyone knows where to find the video footage he mentions, please let me know!) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] FROM: w.j.markerink@a1.nl (Willem-Jan Markerink) SUBJECT: Re: Driving/Spot Lights DATE: Tue, 05 Jun 01 11:56:26 GMT NEWSGROUPS: aus.cars.offroad In article , "Owen Hammond" wrote: >hehe but it is as feral as this thing > >http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0950/page1.html Dang, can't open the next two pages, members-only, bastards....any member willing to send me a copy of at least the text?....;)) -- Bye, Willem-Jan Markerink The desire to understand is sometimes far less intelligent than the inability to understand [note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!] To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: Doug Miller Date sent: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 13:29:49 -0800 Subject: Re: [80] 80 Brakes Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com > From: "JJG" > Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com > Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 13:50:25 -0500 > To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [80] 80 Brakes > > I changed the rear brakes yesterday and further adjusted my proportioning > valve. I went with 80 series Metal Masters in the rear. About a month ago I > went with Toyota 100 series pads in the front. > > Anyway, I wanted to test the lockup of the brakes so I disabled the ABS with a > very quick on/off of my center diff lock switch. I did not have any gravel > roads available and I really wanted to test on dry good pavement, so I went to > my nearest parking lot. My 80 would not lock up it's brakes for anything! I > tried about 6 times, slamming on the brakes with plenty of force from about 30 > mph. The brakes would not lock! Every time the rig just came to stop with no > drama and no pulsing of the ABS. > > This means that > A) I have something else wrong with my braking system or > B) the 80's series brakes are really not good enough for the weight of the rig > and the traction provided by the stock 275/70 Michelin LTX's. > > I feel any braking system should have enough clamping force to lock up the > brakes on dry pavement when no ABS is not used. If the braking system cannot > do this then there is room for improvement. When the braking system can lock > up the tires you are now limited by traction. > > Can some experts (or not) comment on this. Is the 80 series brakes truly not > up to the task? Can anyone lock up their brakes on dry pavement, with good > traction and abs disabled? > > TIA, > John > 97 fzj80 JJG/List, (JJG, not singling you out, the rant below is for the list) There has been much discussion of brake mods like vented brakes, metal pads, 100 pads and the like on this list and I've always been uneasy about it. I have an extensive background in vehicle design and have made a few comments over the years on these threads of a cautionary nature. Your situation is a perfect example of why brakes should not be altered casually simply because the parts are available. A vehicle's brake system is one of the most rigorously researched, designed and assembled aspects of its creation. For some reason, the 80's brakes have gotten a bad name here on the list and it has become part of LandCruiser lore. Personally, I feel the stock brakes are magnificent and highly effective and this lore is the result of poor maintenance or other mods. Mine stop the unladen vehicle powerfully and with authority, and when I'm towing my boat there is no question these large 4 wheel discs are up to the task - even during the worst scenario I can imagine which happened last summer. While towing on a heavily crowned road a deer ran all the way across a field just to jump in front of me. I saw him coming for over 10 seconds and stayed on the gas thinking there was no way he would catch us while my wife and I watched. He suddenly picked up speed and practically threw himself in front of me - literally running an eighth of a mile nearly parallel to the road to do so. I hammered the brakes from 65 to 30 and everything not nailed down ended up on the floor or against the seatbacks. No drama. In short, I feel an 80 series with stock pads, properly bled brakes, antisieze on the pad locating pins, a properly adjusted LSPV valve and stock tires is a vehicle that can stop with authority. Putting larger surface area pads (100s) up front reduces the PSI you are applying to the rotors. Total force is the same, but PSI is critical in converting forward vehicle motion into heat (that after all, is all that brakes do). The critical interface of pad and rotor was carefully taken into consideration when Toyota designed the pads size, shape and material composition. Using a modified pad off another vehicle similar only by the badge on its fender is ill advised. Ditto purchasing aftermarket pads with an unknown composition that was certainly not tailored to the LandCruiser but simply spit out of a factory for every US vehicle. Ditto putting slotted or drilled rotors on it. The conversion of forward motion into heat is a simple task, but the efficiency of that task can be dramatically changed with relatively small modifications. I know I will catch some flak for this post as there are a lot of people who've modified their 80 brakes. And it is difficult to admit that you've done something that may have decreased your vehicle's performance under certain conditions, or ignore a challenge like mine to the veracity of your modification. Putting metal matrix racing pads that don't stop well until they're warmed up on a street vehicle borders on insanity to me, for instance! Panic stops are called that for a reason - completely unexpected. Additionally, "My truck stops so much better now" and objective measured reality may not coincide. You might have said the same thing if you'd put fresh stock pads on to replace the braking deficiency of the worn out pads that caused you to make the change in the first place. And was this opinion based on an untrained sample of one person's behind, or painstaking track testing with high speed photography under the track surface, radio transmitting temperature senders embedded in the rotors, and $100,000 worth of computers and sensing equipment on board? I've personally spent track time on brake projects where different pad compositions being considered by the manufacturer were tested and can tell you the odds of tossing a set of randomly designed pads on a vehicle and improving its braking are astronomically against you. You may achieve better hot braking for the first 20mph of deceleration, but the last 30mph will be 25% longer. Or the opposite. Or they may be inordinately grabby when cold, but fade briefly before coming back to full strength. There are all kinds of brake performance nuances that happen which drivers are completely unaware of. Aftermarket pads may be intentionally "grabby" when first applied to give the proud owner the "feeling" he's improved something. In instrumented testing, these brakes may fade midstop and produce a 7% longer stopping distance. My point here is that it is flawed thinking to assume that we can do a better job with the brakes than Toyota did. Absolutely flawed. As to your case specifically JJG, I'll assume all is well with your braking system. If that's the case, then you've got pads on your truck that are not generating the proper amount of friction, not transferring the heat thus generated at the proper rate, the wrong size for the caliper piston's designed pressure, contact the rotor before the nonlinear pressure in the brake system reaches the peak pressure (too thick), or a combination of these and a dozen other issues I won't go into. Or, you could simply have oil on the rotors - hit em with a can of brake cleaner. This turned into a bit of a rant, but this topic has been a pet peeve of mine for years and I guess I finally snapped today . Seriously, brake mods should not be conducted as casually as experimenting with a different oil filter brand. The brakes on your 80 are a complete system and minor changes to any part can dramatically degrade its performance as a whole. I'd be willing to bet a case of #6 that the best stopping 80 is one whose system is in good working order with a set of stock pads on it. DougM To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "Norm Needham" Date sent: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:33:21 +1100 Subject: Re: [80] 80 Brakes Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: Doug Miller > > There has been much discussion of brake mods like vented brakes, metal pads, > 100 pads and the like on this list and I've always been uneasy about it. I > have an extensive background in vehicle design and have made a few comments > over the years on these threads of a cautionary nature. BIG sniperoonee > My point here is that it is flawed thinking to assume that we can do a > better job with the brakes than Toyota did. Absolutely flawed. Another sniperoonee > I'd be willing to bet a case of #6 that the best stopping 80 is one whose > system is in good working order with a set of stock pads on it. > May I take you to task please Doug? While I agree that Toyota or any other major manufacturer's product undergoes extensive R & D; and that it is folly to think that us mere mortals can improve greatly on their designs; I believe that our changes can improve areas of individual need. Your background in vehicle design must surely tell you that most designs and performance parameters are a compromise between function, longevity, and service requirements. Not to mention market trends. On the specific issue of brake performance, I believe that we as individuals can improve the actual stopping ability, but we do so at the expense of other parameters. A case in point would be a rally or road racing car. They may be fitted with slotted and/or drilled rotors, and with pads of vastly different characteristics than their road going counterparts. You cannot deny that they will consummately out-brake said counterparts, and I cannot deny that their pads and rotors need changing at frequent intervals (often during rally/race time). So there is one compromise. Another case in point is my '88 model 75 with disc front and drum rear brakes. Yes, in standard trim the brakes are quite functional, and no doubt would do the job expected for a working vehicle (avoiding hitting cows and fences on the farm). But I have made other mods that demanded I do some serious thinking about how I was going to stop the beast. The first mod was bigger tyres (your longer lever working against the brakes); the second was the fitment of a big (407 CID) engine and auto transmission. So the engine meant it could go faster, the transmission meant it had less engine braking, and the tyres meant it lost that 21% or so you quoted in braking efficiency. A recipe for disaster you might agree? My answer was to fit really hard pads that worked better at the temperatures my brakes were now enduring, and to fit a double diaphragm booster to produce the line pressure required to make those pads work. Yes, I wear out pads fast; and there is my compromise. I have also compromised 2 wheel drive braking performance by adjusting the LSPV to give plenty of bias to the rear. But then, I trailer the vehicle (lately) to events, and the bias to the rear makes the brakes work better in 4WD. The overall result? I have gone away (not too far) from standard to achieve better braking in my area of need. I don't think my thinking is flawed. I also don't delude myself that I have "done a better job with the brakes than Toyota did". I have simply changed something for my purposes. Now I will take you up on that bet. ;-) I know of one awesomely swift turbo-charged 80 (reputedly about 650 HP) that runs 18 inch rims with similar sized discs and callipers as used by Aussie V8 supercars. It stops from great velocities in about the length of a case of #6. BTW; I admire your courage. To stick your neck out so far in front of us wannabes is very admirable. Cheers * Norm * * '97 HDJ80 * Tea Gardens - Oz * (Somewhere on the coast) Trac4@bigpond.com To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: Doug Miller Date sent: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:35:08 -0800 Subject: Re: [80] 80 Brakes Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com > From: "Norm Needham" > Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:33:21 +1100 > > May I take you to task please Doug? > While I agree that Toyota or any other major manufacturer's product > undergoes extensive R & D; and that it is folly to think that us mere > mortals can improve greatly on their designs; I believe that our changes > can improve areas of individual need. Agreed. In my zeal to prevent all of you from making headlines in your local communities by slaughtering a family in an Escort, I did not address this point enough. I can always count on you Norm, to catch me. It is certainly possible to improve some aspects of the brake system and my contention that it is not possible should have read something like this: It is folly to think that the 80s brake system can be improved with aftermarket parts without subjecting it to deterioration in some aspects whose importance may only surface as you hit something very hard. There are a myriad of design parameters that go into brakes. They must stop well at all rated GVWs, react quickly so as not to give up crucial feet before coming to full strength, brake the same wet from road spray as they do when dry, the pad material must handle the peak heat soak from the rotor, the caliper ditto from the pad, the rotor ditto from the pads and on and on. Changing one of these may create an unintended deterioration somewhere. An aftermarket racing pad may transfer heat much more slowly than the factory pad, so when the brakes are very hot from a sustained mountain descent the pads and caliper assembly are not soaking up their fair share of heat - resulting in warped rotors. Or severe brake fade as the rotor's surface becomes so hot friction drops. I guess I'm trying to make people aware that there is an enormously complex interplay between brake components that most are not aware of, but that act directly on braking effectiveness. I want to be sure that you all understand it is not like selecting a different oil filter - that the brakes are a very dependent system with each part impacted by the other. Can you change to different rotors and get better hot performance? Yes. But you may discover that you've decreased wet performance, panic performance or something else. I don't know why I feel compelled to outline every scenario when you've said it well below - there are tradeoffs to everything. > Your background in vehicle design must surely tell you that most designs > and performance parameters are a compromise between function, longevity, > and service requirements. Not to mention market trends. > On the specific issue of brake performance, I believe that we as > individuals can improve the actual stopping ability, but we do so at the > expense of other parameters. A case in point would be a rally or road > racing car. They may be fitted with slotted and/or drilled rotors, and > with pads of vastly different characteristics than their road going > counterparts. You cannot deny that they will consummately out-brake said > counterparts, and I cannot deny that their pads and rotors need changing > at frequent intervals (often during rally/race time). So there is one > compromise. > Another case in point is my '88 model 75 with disc front and drum rear > brakes. Yes, in standard trim the brakes are quite functional, and no > doubt would do the job expected for a working vehicle (avoiding hitting > cows and fences on the farm). > But I have made other mods that demanded I do some serious thinking > about how I was going to stop the beast. The first mod was bigger tyres > (your longer lever working against the brakes); the second was the > fitment of a big (407 CID) engine and auto transmission. So the engine > meant it could go faster, the transmission meant it had less engine > braking, and the tyres meant it lost that 21% or so you quoted in > braking efficiency. A recipe for disaster you might agree? > My answer was to fit really hard pads that worked better at the > temperatures my brakes were now enduring, and to fit a double diaphragm > booster to produce the line pressure required to make those pads work. This is a perfect example of my concern. You have the skills, knowledge, experience and tools to carry out a total systemwide modification - which is how this type of thing needs to be done. Others on the list may simply go buy the "Titanium Clappers" because someone else with zero automotive engineering knowledge mentioned they "felt" stronger. A week later, they've center punched my theoretical family in the Escort with a 5300lb Cruiser because they've actually lengthened the 45mph-0mph panic stop distance by 20 feet. If you only read one paragraph of my diatribe, this one would be it. > Now I will take you up on that bet. ;-) I know of one awesomely swift > turbo-charged 80 (reputedly about 650 HP) that runs 18 inch rims with > similar sized discs and callipers as used by Aussie V8 supercars. It > stops from great velocities in about the length of a case of #6. > BTW; I admire your courage. To stick your neck out so far in front of us > wannabes is very admirable. Without knowing what was done, I'll keep my wager alive just for the opportunity to SEE this beast! Particularly since any testing will involve me at the wheel. Did I mention that?...... DougM To: "80s COOL international" <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "Norm Needham" Date sent: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:45:13 +1100 Subject: Re: [80] 80 Brakes (CHAT) Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: Doug Miller > > turbo-charged 80 (reputedly about 650 HP) that runs 18 inch rims with > > similar sized discs and callipers as used by Aussie V8 supercars. It > > Without knowing what was done, I'll keep my wager alive just for the > opportunity to SEE this beast! Particularly since any testing will involve > me at the wheel. Did I mention that?...... > 'Twas in Melbourne that I had the pleasure of driving it. Unfortunately, only for a few kilometres. GC knows the vehicle and might tell us if it is still around. NN To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "George Couyant" Date sent: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:47:14 +1100 Subject: Re: 650 hp 80 [80] 80 Brakes (CHAT) Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norm Needham" > Unfortunately, only for a few kilometres. GC knows the vehicle and might > tell us if it is still around. Alas, the blue marlin you experienced Norm is no longer with us. The engine still takes pride of place in one of the shelves at the back of the factory but the car was brought back to standard and sold. It's just not the car that one can drive and survive in Australia. It was "decommissioned" after a particularly scary incident that really brought home the fact that 12 sec 1/4 mile and 2.6 tons of live axle, high COG vehicle should always remain mutually exclusive. People go on about the horsepower that engine produced but really that's nothing special. Torque was what we were after. I wish I had pictures and video of it on the dyno. With front, centre and rear diffs locked - all 4 corners strapped down tight - it still lifted the left front a foot in the air from sheer torque. Also did you notice that when stationary the rhs of the car was higher? Had to go with fairly heavy springs on the rhs to overcome the engine torque making the car lean over onto the rhs. One day that engine will resurface ;-) Cheers gc '97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Oz To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: "markshiveley" Date sent: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 01:04:18 -0000 Subject: Re: 650 hp 80 [80] 80 Brakes (CHAT) Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com George, Norm & Others- In the interest of 650+ HP Cruiser I thought this might be interesting. This one is 740HP with 1114Nm of torque! Toyota block! The engineer is from Oz, where else ;-))) Amazing...... http://www.autospeed.com/A_0950/page1.html Mark To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "George Couyant" Date sent: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:02:25 +1100 Subject: Re: 650 hp 80 [80] 80 Brakes (CHAT) Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "markshiveley" > George, Norm & Others- > > In the interest of 650+ HP Cruiser I thought this might be > interesting. This one is 740HP with 1114Nm of torque! Toyota block! > The engineer is from Oz, where else ;-))) Amazing...... Yes Ivan is a good friend. Ivan did much of the assembly work over there and there were a few shops here in Melbourne working on it. It was some time ago since we did the turbocharger development for that vehicle and since then we have built a number of higher power cruiser engines. Once you get to those torque levels it is very difficult to keep the drive train together. From memory that particular vehicle was running an auto trans (that had surprisingly little work to it) and to keep it from flaring the shift had to be quite savage. It would sometimes break front *and* rear diffs on a gear change. Don't know what diffs it ended up with (as Ivan took care of that development) but in the end it all seemed to hang together. Most of the high torque cruisers over in the middle east run a strengthened Dodge Viper gearbox. It's strong and actually feels quite nice. Cheers gc '97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Oz To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "Darren McRae" Date sent: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 14:49:10 +1100 Subject: Re: 650 hp 80 [80] 80 Brakes (CHAT) Send reply to: 80scool@yahoogroups.com | Most of the high torque cruisers over in the middle east run a strengthened | Dodge Viper gearbox. It's strong and actually feels quite nice. | | Cheers | gc Same as the latest 255 and 300kw gen 3 HSV's the gear noise, because of the size of the gears while stationary with the clutch out is like a 500 000km old 60 series 5 sp though..... Now available with a short shift also [50% reduction in movement] $350 from HSV or $399 aftermarket. gen 3 and 6 sp would make a good combo in a comp truck, with 488 gears even would be very nice with such a tall set of gears in the 6 sp gearbag.... CAPA do a supercharger and intercooler kit for them making a 225 kw model into a 395kw.....with 488 diffs and the 6 sp that would be one quick 80 with a ute conversion and all the heavy useless items removed....8-))) Darren McRae http://www.sleeoffroad.com/pictures/reader_darren.htm To: <80scool@yahoogroups.com> From: "George Couyant" Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 10:18:53 +1000 Subject: Re: [80] Re: Hot transfer case Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher Bell" > the "feel and spit" method though, as I don't have a temp gun! > I'd estimate that the hi/lo shift gear lever shaft was probably > slightly warmer than blood temperature, say 110 deg F. The transfer case is certainly the item that suffers most from high heat when working hard. From memory, after 20 min at a constant 220 kph (140 mph) the transfer case oil temperature exceeded 110 deg C (230 deg F) - which is certainly in the realm of having to use high quality synthetic gear oil. The rest of the driveline temps remain fine. Cheers gc '97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Oz To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: Craig Vincent Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 22:58:34 +1200 Subject: Re: [80] Re: Hot transfer case (Chat) Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com George Couyant wrote: >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Christopher Bell" > >>the "feel and spit" method though, as I don't have a temp gun! I'd estimate >>that the hi/lo shift gear lever shaft was probably slightly warmer than blood >>temperature, say 110 deg F. >> > >The transfer case is certainly the item that suffers most from high heat when >working hard. From memory, after 20 min at a constant 220 kph (140 mph) the >transfer case oil temperature exceeded 110 deg C (230 deg F) - which is >certainly in the realm of having to use high quality synthetic gear oil. The >rest of the driveline temps remain fine. > >Cheers >gc > >'97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Oz Hi George, I had to ask how the hell do you get a cruiser upto 220kph (or maybe more importantly keep it on the road), it obviously wasn't a 1HD-FT warmed up on stock gearing because that would run out of revs at 180kph or in that area. To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com From: George Couyant Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 08:32:15 +1000 Subject: Re: [80] Re: Hot transfer case (Chat) Reply-To: 80scool@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Vincent" > Hi George, > I had to ask how the hell do you get a cruiser upto 220kph (or maybe > more importantly keep it on the road), it obviously wasn't a 1HD-FT > warmed up on stock gearing because that would run out of revs at 180kph > or in that area. Oh, I see the confusion. I typed 220 kph when I meant to type 240 kph. Craig, these are intercooled turbo petrol engines where part of the development testing is to data log the entire drive train over generally several 30 min periods of full throttle running. They basically go straight to the rev limiter in top gear and stay there. Other than the transfer case, the real issue is with tyres. Depending on the region, they are supplied with either 4.11:1 or 3.9:1 gearing so the top speed varies slightly but determined overall by the engine rev limiter. A diesel has no chance of hitting those speeds unless geared to the moon. Cheers gc '97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Oz http://www.pbase.com/drexx/fastest_fzj80 http://www.toyotas.de/cgi/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=50080&sid=&hilight=landcruiser http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0950/page1.html